Anyone who has read this blog for more than ten minutes probably recognizes my fondness for Cabernet Franc. A few weeks ago my girlfriend and I escaped a power outage in Queens to stay with family in Niagara Falls for a few days before a trip to Northern Michigan. Since we were heading to a cookout at a relative's house in "the country" -- Cambria more specifically -- we decided to stop at a few of the wineries on the Niagara Escarpment. On a previous trip to the area I purchased a Cabernet blend of Cab Sauv and Cab Franc from Eveningside Vineyards, a new winery in that area. So I was looking forward to visiting, tasting, and maybe purchasing a bottle or two.
Eveningside Vineyards is the result of owner Randy Biehl's desire to create a winery where vinifera grapes would benefit from the location between the escarpment and Lake Ontario. In January of 2000 he befriended Kevin Latter, vineyard manager at Cave Spring Cellars in Ontario, and volunteered at his vineyard. In the meantime, Randy searched for 18 months for a proper location for his own vines before finding an old fruit tree and concord grape vineyard on 21 acres in Cambria. In 2001 he began planting Chardonnay, Riesling, and Cabernet Franc grapes. Kevin Latter provides guidance to Eveningside as well as fellow Cave Springer and winemaker Angelo Pavan who contributes as the consultant wine maker.
Our visit to the vineyard was extremely positive. Tasting in a barn as opposed to a building that looks like a banquet hall is always better in my opinion. Although there's only a few varieties to taste there, unlike most of the wineries in the area where native grapes and hybrids join vinifera selections, each was enjoyable. I'm a fan of the Cave Spring wines, especially their Riesling and Gamay, and Eveningside's wines do seem like they have the same care put into them. We ended up buying the Chardonnay and leaving somewhat disappointed that the Cab Franc is not available for tasting yet. There was a 2004 Cabernet that was light in body with berry fruit flavors and a clean finish that I liked, but since I had the 2003 I choose to wait to purchase the 2004, a mistake in hindsight.
Eveningside Vineyards Cabernet 2003
Niagara Escarpment, New York ($18)
Just last night I decided to open the 2003 Cabernet to drink on its own to just sit back and ponder how my favorite varietal does in my hometown area. This wine is 57% Franc and 43% Sauv. With its light purple color and silky body it looked delicious. It sure had the bell pepper smell of a Cab Franc with hints of cedar and pepper. It had cherries on the nose but not overwhelming as it almost took a backseat to the pepper. Most people tend to find the green aroma or flavor of this grape to be negative, but I find it to be another contributing piece of the puzzle I have become a fan of. Anyway, the wine had a great silky mouth feel and a crisp finish. I believe that this wine is a good omen as to how Cab Franc can grow in this area when done right. Since I've enjoyed this grape grown in the Finger Lakes and Ontario, I've been hoping that it could find a home in the Escarpment too. I'm not sure where the Cab Sauv grapes were grown that were blended in this wine though as I should have asked when I was there. This fall Eveningside will release a Cabernet Franc from the 2005 vintage. I will be first in line for a bottle.
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