Water into Wino

WBW #30 New World Syrah

I must sound like a broken record. It seems like every wine I write about lately is from Chile. Well I just can't help it. The price to quality ratio of these wines is impressive. The Carmeneres are basically free. The Cab Sauvignon and Merlots are usually half of what I'd pay for a comparable domestic version. The Pinot Noir can be satisfying while still accessible under $20. For some reason Chilean Syrah is undeniably more expensive then the other varietals. While the bargain wines I've had before are consistently a pleasant surprise, at $20 I'm expecting a $35 flavor profile that will rock my palate.

Casa Lapostolle Winery was founded in 1994 by the Marnier Lapostolle family from France and the Rabat family from Chile. The French connection are founders and owners of Grand Marnier ( of the Spirit fame) and have been winegrowers in the Loire Valley. They own 300 hectacres and produce 150,000 cases, including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carmenere, and Syrah.

Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre Syrah 2004
Cachapoal Valley, Chile ($22)

This Syrah is grown in rocky Las Kuras Vineyard of Requinoa, in the Cachapoal Valley, and it's from their midlevel Cuvee Alexandre series. It's made from 100% Syrah grapes grown after a dry 2003 season which resulted in budding some 10 days earlier than average. What's really crazy is that there was no rain registered that summer at all. The wine was aged for 21 months in new French oak barrels and it weighs in at 14.5% alcohol.

Dark purple in color. The nose took a while to open up, but when it did it revealed definite meat aromas with ripe dark fruits. This wine feels very fleshy and full bodied. I get some complex notes that include chocolate and cigar box. Overall, it's well balanced and persistent on the finish. While I do find this wine to be worth the $20 I paid, it's not as intriguing as the Montes Alpha Syrah I tasted a few weeks ago. It went extremely well with the sausage and peppers I had for dinner and got better with every sip I took. My grade: A-

Typical friday story...

I picked up a bottle of Montes Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2005 last night on my way to a friends house. The wine store was tasting a few wines so I couldn't resist trying a couple even though I was running late. Good thing I did cause the Oregon A to Z Vineyards Night & Day 2005 red was delicious. Mostly Merlot, Cab Franc, and Cab Sauvignon, it was ripe and fruit forward, with some earth and spice. The 2004 vintage was sprinkled with a bit of Dolcetto and Syrah as well as other grapes, but I'm not sure about this one. Nothing too complex but just a naturally enjoyable wine. They didn't have any to sell because I think the employees were tasting to decide on stocking it. If they do, I'm going to buy a couple... even if it is a screw cap closure.

As far as the Chilean Montes Cabernet went, it was OK. The aromas were sexy as hell but the tannins were very immature and bitter. The 2004 was voted best of tasting by the WSJ not too long ago in their Chilean Cab article. This vintage should mellow out with bottle age, but since I'm nothing close to an expert, I'm totally guessing.

Vina Porta Pinot Noir 2005

I'm back on my Chile kick after a few short days. This time it's Pinot Noir that I'm hunting down. Seems like every time I go to the wine store, there's another Pinot selection from Chile. Most of the decent ones I've seen are from the Bio-Bio Valley which is considered one of the most southern regions in Chile. Because of it's cool climate, Pinot seems to do well along with Sauvignon Blanc.

Vina Porta was established in 1954 by the Gutierrez family who arrived from Spain and it evolved into one of the first boutique wineries in the area. After a larger company acquired the winery in 1997, the winery developed a plan to utilize the different growing regions and plant accordingly to the terroir. This includes the Aconcagua, Maipo, Rapel and Bio-Bio valleys. Among the grapes planted are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Carmenere, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir. This bottle I drank is grown at the Negrete Estate Vineyard.

Porta Winemaker Reserve Pinot Noir 2005
Bio-Bio Valley, Chile ($13)

Bright ruby color with delicate aromas of strawberrys and roses. Light bodied and supple with soft red berry flavors. There is a pleasing tart cherry note that really rounds out the flavor. The mouth feel is very elegant for such an inexpensive wine. For some reason the shape of a diamond comes to mind when I think of the flavor of this wine. This is the first Pinot I've drink for under $20 that I want to buy again. Luckily my random around the corner liquor store has a few bottles. My grade: B+

My first Syrah from Chile

Chile. Chile. Chile. I find myself thinking that every time I enter a wine store. Do I splurge on a $20 Chilean bottle or just get three bottles of a $6 Carmenere or Cab Sauvignon? Well now that I'm on a Syrah kick, that question becomes an easy one.

My interest In Vina Montes wines began when my friend pointed out a Wall Street Journal review of bargain Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon. Their Montes Reserve Cabernet won best of tasting at only $9 a bottle. I've since tried their limited series Cabernet and Carmenere blend. For only $13 it is a huge wine. The fruit of the Cab and the smoky and herbaceous Carmenere balances well with its toasty finish.

Montes Alpha Syrah 2003
Colchagua Valley, Chile ($20)

The Alpha Series is a mid level range wines which include Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Syrah. The Syrah grapes are grown at the Apalta Vineyard, in the Colchagua Valley, an area of steep hillsides in the higher elevations. The wine is aged in French Oak for one year and about 7000 cases imported into the USA. I picked this one up for $20 but I'm sure it can be found for as little as $16 online.

Ruby red color with concentrated aromas of black cherries and tobacco. Earth and floral aromas as well. Big and soft on the palate with some spice, some vanilla, as well as bitter chocalate. The finish is excellent in its length but the fruit fades a bit to fast. The 10% Cabernet Sauvignon gives this some power but it remains generous and elegant in the end. It's not as masculine as the Columbia Winery Syrah I tried recently, but just as delicious and more exotic. My grade: A-

Friday Night Flight

Friday started another weekend of wine assimilation. Last night we got together with friends and decided to make wine the main course of the evening. The first bottle we corked was a ubiquitous Bogel Petite Syrah 2004. It's been some time since I had this wine, but I thought I'd see how my taste buds have changed. It didn't taste as good as I remember. I thought it had a juicy quality that I don't care for.

After polishing off that bottle we took a field trip to a liquor store adjacent to a Costco store. I know, this is sinful in the eyes of someone that has become accustomed to wine boutiques, but it wasn't a let down. First off, they had free samples from Martha Clara Vineyards from the North Fork of Long Island. Each wine we tasted was almost half of the price you pay at the winery, but we ended up buying two Cabernet Sauvignons from not so ordinary regions as well as a Merlot from Navarra Spain.

We opened an Argentine Catena Cabernet Sauvignon from Mendoza and tasted it next to a Cousino Macul Cabernet Sauvignon from Maipo Valley, Chile, both from the 2003 vintage. While being extremely different they both delivered for the prices we paid (around $13). The Catena was full very full bodied with concentrated dark fruit flavor and a touch of pepper. Very reminiscent of quality California Cabs for twice the price. The Cousino Macul had a remarkable dusty aroma that I could only associate with the odor of a moist cavern. Dark fruit flavor with sweet tannins that end on an earthy note. They were so different that I could not pick a favorite over the other. The Chilean one is much more interesting although it isn't as crowd pleasing as the Catena.

The Monjardin Merlot Deyo 2002 seemed to go over well too. This Spanish merlot was mysterious and it seemed to show a maturity and complexity I rarely taste in a straight merlot. All three of these wines were a bargain. There were several other bottles that caught my eye there at the Costco infected wine store including some Italian reds and a few Oregon Pinot Noirs.

Calina Carmenere Reserve 2004

Calina Carmenere Reserve 2004
Chile, Maule Valley ($6)

I'm constantly trying new wines with the hopes of finding affordable table wines that I can open and not feel guilty over any night of the week. While trying to save the pricier bottles for the weekend, I've found one wine that never lets me down. With all the buzz about the unbeatable deals coming from Chile these days, it's not a surprise that I've been drinking a $6 Carmenere like it's going out of style. Turns out the more Carmenere I buy at the $12-$15 range, the more I appreciate the $6-$8 ones as they are far more food friendly.

Vina Calina is a rather large winery owned by Kendall-Jackson with vineyards in several regions of Chile. The Carmenere Reserve is from the Maule Valley, but they also grow their Cabernets in the Colchagua Valley. In fact his bottle is 80% Carmenere, 11% Cabernet (Maule), and another 9% Cabernet (Colchagua) grapes. It spends 9 months in French and American oak, contains 13.5% alcohol, and the production was 11,500 cases.

Deep purple color. Aromas of black fruits, spice, and perhaps a touch of leather. Full bodied and velvety on the palate with ripe plum and black pepper. Easy drinking with a long finish. Every sip reveals a balanced and fairly complex flavor that cannot be matched for the price. I'm pretty much buying up the last case at the liquor store in my neighborhood. My grade: B+

La Playa Carmenere 2001

La Playa Carmenere 2001 Reserve
Chile, Colchagua Valley ($9)

I know some day I'm gonna find a Carmenere under $10 that will make for a good sipping wine as well as a good dinner wine. Out of all them at the store I was in the other day, this one had the most respectable label. Revealing itself to be from the Colchagua Valley this Chilean wine also is listed as an estate reserve. Grown on 10 year old vines, this blend of 90% Carmenere and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon is aged in 8 to 12 months in oak and another 2 years in the bottle.

Dark purple color. Aromas of blackberry jam and bitter chocolate. Lush texture and killer legs make this an attractive wine in the glass. Concentrated ripe dark fruits with a little spice on the palate. Sweet gentle tannins add to the experience. The only negative is the short and somewhat bitter finish. I might have felt some heat too. Good food wine and I'll use it in my meat ragu again soon as it is the best Carmenere I've tasted. My grade: B

Solario Carmenere Reserve 2004

Solario Carmenere Reserve 2004
Chile, Maipo Valley ($8)

A few weeks ago I drank a couple $6 Carmenere bottles that weren't all that bad for the price. During the 25% sale at Astor Wines I picked up a couple more from a producer named Solario. It is not unusual that Astor carries wines that you won't find anywhere else. They will simply stock each varietal from that producer as if they got a huge deal on a bulk sale from the winery. Since finding info on the web about these wines are impossible, you kind of have to trust that the buyers there aren't buying crap. Solario produces Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Syrah, and this Carmenere in Chile. Since Chile is on the map for its Merlot and Carmenere, I assumed this one would be better that the random bottles I drank before.

Dark opaque purple color. Intense aromas of dark berries and peppercorn. Full flavor with some toast from the aging I assume. Blackberry is most recognizable characteristic. Finishes quick yet balanced with some peppery spice. Not bad at all. I must say that this is the second of the two I tried. The first bottle tasted flat and its tannins weren't integrated well. This one tasted remarkably better. I might be inclined to pick up another at the sale price. My grade: B-

A Chilean in search of an identity

During one of my obsessive journeys for more info on Cab Franc I came across a winery that mentioned their older vines consisted of some Carmenere grapes among the Franc. It even mentioned that Carmenere was its "near twin". So apparently Cab Franc has a Spanish speaking twin that is much cheaper and can be found on those dusty untouched shelves of Chilean wine at my local liquor store. The good Dr. Vino lists one among his value picks page made by MontGras. Another internet search claimed that this grape is most similar to Merlot... not as glamorous these days. Who needs glamor when you want a simple dinner wine for those weekday pick me ups? And for under $10 what can it hurt? I'll buy two.

Agustos Carmenere 2001 Chile, Central Valley ($6)

I picked this one first because of the classier label and the 2001 vintage. I assumed the extra 2 years would mellow out the tannins and go with the meal I was having. Inky purple color. Aromas of dark fruit and bell pepper with a dusty almost smoky tinge. Palate consisted of raisins, green tea, and plum. The finish was short but clean. Didn't dry the mouth of give off any heat. I was surprised at the complexity of this wine for the price. It evolved with every glass and was delicious with the chocolate truffles we had for dessert. My grade: B-

Santa Alicia Carmenere Reserve 2003 Chile, Maipo Valley ($6)

This wine had one of those labels I instinctively pass over at the store. Since I knew what I was looking for this time, the only thing that mattered was the varietal. It's labeled as a reserve 2003 from the Maipo Valley, Chile. Slightly darker than the other Carmenere, this one had aromas of leather and tobacco with a little plum. This wine tasted fatter with more ripe fruit flavors of plum and raison. Noticeably more tannic with a longer finish of spice and some heat. Might be better with another year of aging. Once again not bad for the price. My grade: C+

I cannot deny that the price of these wines have influence on the ratings. With appropriate food pairings, I think the average wine drinker would enjoy these as dinner wines. I'll pick up a couple to have on standby for a good stewed meat dish.