Water into Wino

Il Brecciarolo Rosso Piceno 2002

Il Brecciarolo Rosso Piceno Superiore 2002
Italy, Marche ($16)

This blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese from Marche is produced by Velenosi Ercole who is known to be somewhat experimental with his wines. The DOC of Rosso Piceno is located at the extreme southern part of Marche, closest to Abruzzo. It is here that producers see the montepulciano grape as more than just a bulk table wine varietal. A maximum of 70% montepulciano can be used in this DOC blend. This wine has been aged in one year of oak.

Ruby red with aromas of cherries, licorice, and a touch of leather. Only slightly tannic with a cleansing acidity that makes this a great dinner wine. Well balanced and supple on the palate. The finish is fresh and fruity. Definetly more refined than any of the pure Montepulcianos I've drank. The price point takes it out of my table wine arsenal but I can see it as a weekday treat on occasion with my meat ragu. My grade: B

Taurino Salice Salentino Reserve 2000

Taurino Salice Salentino Reserve 2000

Italy, Puglia, Salento ($10)

I’m becoming predictable. Another southern Italian red. This one comes from a respectable producer and it is readily available in the states. From all I’ve read, 2000 in southern Italy was a great year and this wine benefited from the growing season. It’s 85% Negroamaro and the rest Malvasia Nera, a typical blend for a Salice Salentino.

Ruby red color with light brown edges. Aromas of cherries and herbs. Soft tannins and medium body. Rustic earthy palate with plum and wild berry notes. Long finish that shows some pepper and licorice. Not as good as my favorite, “Agricole Vallone” 2000, but a good pick at this price of $10. My grade: B

Fassati Selciaia Rosso 2004

Selciaia Rosso di Montepulicano 2004
Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano ($10)

If I have to wait more than 30 minutes for a delivery pizza I prefer to place the order, then walk to the corner liquor store for a bottle. Most likely I will be looking for an Italian red under $10. I don't like any of the Montepulciano D'Abruzzo bottles at this particular store so that takes care of that. A best buy Chianti would do but there's nothing exciting about that. This time I was torn between a Nero d'Avola or a new addition there of a Rosso Di Montepulciano. I've commonly seen Vino Noble Di Montepulciano around but the plain old rosso version is something I don't usually find.

This Tuscan Sangiovese based red was aged in French oak barriques for 120 days. The name Selciaia comes from the flinty soils located at the family-owned Fassati vineyard estate. The label looks respectable enough. It says this wine pairs well with red meats, game, pasta with meat sauces, and cheeses. I had ordered a "grandma" style tray cheese pizza from the local pizza joint. I think this wine wanted a meaty topping though.

Ruby red in color. Aroma of cherries primarily. Somewhat fizzy texture I assume comes from its youth. Ripe red fruit flavor with notes of licorice. The taste is overly tart and not very complex. Short finish that left me wondering If I should have stayed away from such a young vintage. My grade: C+

Tormaresca Negroamaro/Cabernet 2001

Tormaresca Negroamaro/Cabernet 2001
Italy, Puglia ($11)

Southern Italian wines make my mouth water. I don't know why. Every time I'm asked about my favorite region, I mention Puglia. The negroamaro based wines have a full, dry, earthy, and bitter taste that I love to pair with my home cooking. The buzz of finding a new liquor store in my neighborhood hasn't worn off yet and this bottle had gotten my attention the last time I lurked down aisle there. Having never heard of the producer Tormaresca, and being less than impressed with the label, the only selling point was the 70% negroamaro. The other 30% is Cabernet Sauvignon. I guess this could be described as new world influence on a native grape based wine. Typically this would be Malvasia Nera instead of cabernet. I'm not sure if this mix would attract the average Cab drinker, but it damn sure interested me as a Negroamaro drinker.

Aromas of dark berries and licorice. Medium body with earth undertones and ripe fruit flavors. The blend is seamless, with the cabernet making up for the usual bitter aftertaste of the negroamaro. It seems very one dimensional, but satisfying in the taste and feel it has to offer. I think it makes a great dinner wine, and in my case it was with gnocchi. The most interesting aspect of this wine has got to be its potential to inspire the average wine drinker, more specifically the cab drinker, to try something different. It may just be the wine that opens up a novice wine drinker to lesser known grapes like negroamaro. My grade: B-

A Four Bottle Friday.

Anytime I time I get to taste four wines in one night I am happy. This past Friday, my girlfriend and I did up some panini for our friends during our weekly international theme dinner. On the menu was a hot soppressata and fontina with arugula and olive tamponade panini. And for the vegetarian choice...fried eggplant and mozzarella with tomato sauce and basil. On the side was a bean, potato, and red onion and rosemary salad. My love of everything fried drove me to make fried nutella ravioli with vanilla ice cream dessert.

The first bottle we opened was Tres Picos Garnacha 2004, from Campo de Borja, Spain. Grown on 35-40 year old vines. Ripe red fruit on the nose. Bright red berries and plums blast the palate. Sweet and soft tannins and a balanced finish make this a good on wine on its own or with food. These Borsao wines from Campo de Borja consistently deliver for the price.

Up next was the Cottanera Barbazzale Rosso 2003 from Sicily, Italy. It's wearing a serious label with a delicate illustration of a vine and some cursive Italian writing. This is a blend of 90% Nerello Mascalese and 10% Nero D'Avola. Ruby in color. Aromas of plum and dark cherry. Soft tannins and a well-balanced tart cherry fruit flavor. Good clean gentle finish. It went well with the panini.

My contribution consisted of a Gladiator Copertino Reserve 1999. I have enjoyed several negroamaro based wines in the past, most of which were Salice Salentinos, but I've also had a few Copertinos. This fella here has 70% Negroamaro, 10% Malvasia Nera, 10% Montepulciano, and 10% Sangiovese. Sounds delicious right? The label is bad ass with the gladiator helmet and the royal blue color. Inky dark red color. Concentrated dark fruit on the nose with earthy tones and leather. Full bodied lush texture with soft tannins. I think this wine is at its peek. It was very well balanced and finished with a spicy oak flavor that worked extremely well with the fruit. My grade: A-

With my nutella ravioli, I opened a bottle Banfi Rosa Regale Brachetto D’Acqui 2004. As far as dessert wines go, this one is welcome on my table anytime. It pairs well with chocolate, so that’s all I have to say. Strawberries, raspberries, and a hint of rose petals combine for a refreshing taste. Perfect as an apertif also. My grade: A-

Nicodemi Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

Nicodemi Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2002
Italy, Abruzzo, Teramo ($17)

Among the mixed case of reds I received from Italian Wine Merchants, there was one Montepulicano D'Abruzzo. This one is made from old vine Montepulciano as well as some 5-10 year old vines. It's aged in Slovenian casks for 8 months and another 6 months in the bottle. The soil type is a medium mix of limestone and clay. The vineyard is in Notaresco, within the Teramo region of Abruzzo.

Black cherry nose with violets. Delicious dark berry concentrated flavor and some mineral qualities. Silky smooth tannins. Fresh, well balanced and the perfect wine for my meat ragu dinner. It reminds me of why Montepulciano continuously makes its way to my dinner table. This is probably the best I've had so far. My grade: B+

Clerico Visadi Dolcetto 2004

Clerico Visadi Dolcetto 2004
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe ($18)

This wine comes from the town of Monforte d'Alba and Dolcetto means "little sweet one" referring to its sweet taste when ripe. Its wine is often deeply colored with soft tannins. It ripens early and produces fruity wines that are meant to be drank in all their youthful glory. Domenico Clerico produces highly sought after Barolos and Barbera in addition to this Dolcetto.

Deep purple color. Aromas of dark fruit, chocolate, and licorice. This is a plump full bodied wine. Dark fruit and slightly tart cherry flavors. Silky smooth tannins. Slight heat on the finish but I am getting over a sore throat so it may have well been that affecting my taste. I've never had a Dolcetto before and I was extremely impressed with the clean full fruit aspect of this wine. Well rounded and quite pleasing. I can't wait to try this again when the winter sick bug hasn't clouded my taste buds. My grade: B+

Friday at Lupa Osteria Romana

Feudi di Romans Refosco Italy, Friuli

Last Friday was an ideal day in New York City for late January. Sunny skies and temps in the mid 50's was all I needed to motivate a day of walking in the city. My girlfriend and I met up after work for some dinner at Mario Batali's Lupa Osteria Romana. Known for its authentic Roman fare at reasonable prices, this place is good eats. The wine list is large and also reasonable. While we both ordered salads to begin, her's was a bit more memorable. It was parsley greens with lemon, red onions and shaved pecorino. The waiter held a separate sizzling plate of pancetta that he topped the salad with at the table. It was delicious! I choose the Saltimbocca for my main dish. This always blows me away. It leaves every taste bud satisfied.

Although I thought a good earthy red from Puglia would pair nicely I ended up trying something different. I've never had Refosco before, but I knew I liked the mineral qualities of wine from this region. Slightly smoky aroma with hints of blackberry. Mixed berry on the palate with a smooth texture. Light tannins. Earthy bitter notes on the finish. It was a good food wine, but there was so much in the flavor of the Saltimbocca, I'm not sure which wine could show a complex palate next to it.

Terre di Epicuro Negroamaro 2002

Terre di Epicuro Negroamaro 2002
Rosso del Salento Italy, Apulia ($7)

My constant search for a quality table wine has inspired another $7 purchase of this 100% Negroamaro from Salento. I frequently make meat ragu as well as pomodoro sauce for dinner. Typically I consume Montepulciano or an affordable Chianti with these meals, leaving the pricier Italian reds for special occasions or simply for weekends. I found this bottle at a liquor store right around the corner from me. I've probably drank around ten bottles of this wine in the past, so my expectations are moderately high and usually met.

This last bottle just didn't meet those expectations. The earthy, dark red fruit aromas were present. The color was the same, that being a deep red almost purple color. The taste on the other hand was tart. The bitterness that earned this grape its name was a little too harsh. The fruit flavors were hidden. Did I just get a bad bottle? Has the poor 2002 growing season finally affected this vintage pushing it past its drinkable window? Has my palate evolved and I'm just now noticing the details of this rustic wine? The truth has to be in there somewhere. For now I may hold off on this wine. My grade: C

Ceuso Scurati 2004

Ceuso Scurati 2004 Italy, Sicily ($16)

From the Alcamo zone of western Sicily, comes this pure Nero d'Avola wine. This is the first bottle from my case of Italian wines I received as a gift. My signature meat ragu was on the menu the other night, so of course I needed a red wine to add to the cooking process. It's always difficult to pour out a cup of it just for cooking, but I've realized that the result justifies one less glass for drinking.

Bright ruby red color. Intense aroma similar to a Syrah but with more earth. Ripe cherries and chocolate are the main players in this youthful wine. Very fleshy texture with smooth tannins. Full bodied with a delicious finish. I have to say that I have an appetite for warm weather Italian reds. This one delivers even though I was worried it may have been to young to drink. My grade: B+