Water into Wino

Anthony Road Cabernet Franc-Lemberger

Cabernet Franc-Lemberger 2006
Finger Lakes, New York ($18)

Every once in a while I find a wine that seems like its been grown, made and marketed towards people like myself. On a recent trip to basically the only wine store I go to these days, I found a wine that simply made its purchase mandatory. No questions. No doubts. No checking of my finances before hand.

There are only a few grapes that could induce this kind of reaction. And if this isn't your first trip to my site, you probably know the that I'm talking about cabernet franc. But this bottle had even more going for it... 30% lemberger! And from the Finger Lakes to boot.

Anthony Road Winery is located on the west side of Seneca Lake. I've stopped in quickly on my way down to NYC in the past and was mildly impressed with the reds, which were really the only wines I tasted there. The fact is nothing really stood out compared to the other FL reds I tried that day. I had pretty much forgotten about them until last week when I found this bottle.

Why am I so thrilled about this wine? I just think these two grapes are suited for cool climate viticulture up here in the FL and Niagara USA Region. Rarely do you see them together and I'm not sure why that's the case. I know Fox Run Vineyards also bottled a blend of the two that won an award or two, but it wasn't available when I visited. So this bottle is my first introduction to the cab franc/lemberger wines of the FL.

Dark red color with aromas of raspberry and cherry. Lively mouth feel with decent weight to it for a cool climate red. Spicy tones of cherry and vanilla linger on the finish. I drank this with my meat ragu (and used it in sauce as well) the other night and loved every sip. I don't think it's big enough to just hang out with as it begs for food with its acidity. It also benefitted with decanting and/or a good rest over night. My grade: A-

Corey Creek Cabernet Franc 2002

Corey Creek Cabernet Franc 2002
Northfork, New York USA ($20)

The 2002 growing season must have been a good one for North Fork red grape growers. It was the 02' Osprey's Dominion Cabernet Franc that motivated a spending spree on Cab Franc that me to having a the franc filled wine fridge I have today. I've enjoyed a few others from the same vintage but nothing that excited me as much as the Osprey's. A few days ago I was reminded of my first innocent experiences with great Cab Franc.

Black raspberry and cherry aromas. I thought the color is slightly lighter than the Osprey's 02' and overall the tannins seem a bit smoother. The supple mouth-feel was simply delightful. It reminded me of the 04' Jamesport Cab Franc that critics went gaga over last year. The lengthy finish had a bit of vanilla and cedar and it just left a great impression. My grade: A

Wino has a baby! (website that is)

Even though this site hasn't seen many updates recently, my passion for wine hasn't diminished. I've learned that a home is a lot of work, and a home with 10 acres of land is a hell of a lot of work. In my spare time though I've been getting to know that the Niagara Escarpment area with fresh eyes and an open mind. There's so much to tell you about up here I could never put it in this blog. That's why I created NiagaraEscarpment.net. It's essential reading for anyone coming to the Niagara Falls area that appreciates wine, agriculture, and natural beauty.

Finger Lakes Dining at its Best

During my last trip to the finger lakes I was confronted with several important decisions. What lake are we gonna do today? East or west side? Start north, head back south towards the cottage? Bring lunch? Stop for lunch? Where to eat dinner? Are reservations needed? When choosing a wine country dinner they are a few musts. The restaurant must have an ecletic menu. A heavy Italian cuisine focused place will not cut it after a long day of drinking. It must have farm fresh ingredients since after all we are in the country. Lastly, the wine menu must have extensive local wine options at fair prices. After considering a few winery restaurants for our first night's dinner, I ended up taking some advice from the owner of Catherine Cottages, the place we stayed at in Montour Falls, just south of Seneca lake.

He emailed us a list of restaurants and luckily I read it in time to get reservations at the Stonecat Cafe in Hector, NY. What sold me on this place was its use of organic ingredients across the board. It's located on the east side of Seneca Lake and the view is spectacular. I had some short ribs and a triple cream on crostini appetizer. My fiance and our friends loved it and it was somewhat of a relief as we are used it to gourmet eats from our new york city days. This restaurant was spot on in everyway and satisfied all the must-haves I previously mentioned. I highly recommend this place to anyone that wants a delicious thought provoking meal when they are winding down from a days worth of wine tasting in the Finger Lakes.

Quick taste of Warm Lake

Warm Lake Estate has literally put the Niagara Escarpment AVA on the map. Banking on a climate that has been compared to Burgandy, they have found investors from around the globe to plant 45 acres of pinot noir. The winery has been open for only a few years but has been successful at distributing their wine throughout the state and beyond. Their location on the sloping bench of the escarpment was meticulously picked to provide an ideal terroir for pinot.

My first visit to this winery was almost two years ago and was regrettably not a memorable event. Last friday we stopped by while driving through the area and I'm glad I did cause it was an eye opening experience. Along with the tasty 2005 vintage were three single vineyard wines available to taste and buy. The point of course is to showcase the differences of each vineyard separated by soil type. I've studied up on the area's geography enough to know that the Otis and Rhinebeck wines are named after the loam soil on which they are planted. The other bottle, whose name escapes me at the moment, consisted of their newest planting and was my favorite despite the vines only being 3 years old. Each was extremely Burgundian in style and worth the hefty penny they are charging, and I only say that because the area is young and the other wines tend to be inexpensive.

Overall it was an inspiring day driving around the country up in good ole Niagara County, south of Lake Ontario. Even with snow covered roads and blustery winds this wino wasn't slowed down enough not to get a few tastes in with his new fiance and soon to be mother in law.

International Night Portuguese Style

Portugal was the destination of choice for my girlfriend's weekend "International Night" extravaganza. I was stoked by the possibility of finding inexpensive wines that most people would never bother drinking, and in most cases, never even locate. I also like to geek out on music for these dinners and this time I sparred no expense and abused my itunes account with another impulsive purchase. The music of the night was Guitarra Portuguesa by Carlos Paredes.

Quinta de Pancas Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Portugal ($12)

The evening started with some olives, breadsticks, and dates accompanied with this Portuguese Cabernet. Old world comes to mind when describing this bottle. Medium body and well balanced with dark fruit. While lacking in the common overripeness of most cabs, it secured my attention with rustic earth accents and a graceful finish. Since most of the Portuguese reds I've had are native grape intensive, this was new to me.

Senorio de Sarria Crianza 1999
Navarra, Spain ($12)

The soup course, sopa de couves, was from Leite's Culinaria, a website run by David Leite which features some tasty Portuguese recipes as well as other cuisine. It is mainly chorizo, kale, and potatoes. My pairing reference book suggested, amongst others things, a Spanish red from Navarra. This tempranillo based crianza boasted soft as a baby's ass tannins and an extremely gentle structure of red berry fruit and cedar. Along with the chorizo, it was pairing perfection. This wine whispered old world and I loved every sip with the soup.

Esporao Reserva 2005
Alentejo, Portugal ($10)

From the same website came Porco con Ameijoas a Alenteniana, or in gringo terms, pork with clams. Vinho Verde would have been satisfactory, but my friend went above and beyond again with a couple bottles of a Portuguese blend of native Roupeiro, Arinto, and Anttao Vaz. Living in the Portuguese capitol of Long Island, or Mineola, has payed off several times over. This white was delicious as well. Full bodied with a sexy buttery oak flavor that added depth and complexity, this wine finished was a hint of sweetness. Another perfect pairing.

Dessert included Pasteis de Coco, coconut-custard tarts. What's Portuguese night without Port? I didn't want to find out so we ended with an Osprey's Dominion Port. Not bad at all.

Osprey's Dominion Cabernet Franc 2002

Osprey's Dominion can take much of the credit for my awakening to Long Island's North Fork wine country. Sure it took a couple of my good friends to pour there for a few seasons to find it, but it really did open me up to several new things. It all started with the 2000 vintage Cabernet Franc and evolved into day long picnics with live music, friends, and a huge selection of wine.

Last season Osprey's was building a new tasting room so we didn't hang out there for their live music and tranquil scenery as much as I'd like to. This didn't stop us from stopping by to taste how their Meritage blends were evolving and to pick up more Cab Franc. They probably have the widest selection of reds and whites on the Island, with about 90 acres of grapes planted. In 2005 they were declared winery of the year at the NY State Wine and Food Classic and they are no stranger to double gold and best in show awards.

The standouts for me have been the reds of course, the rose, Fume Blanc, the Sauvignon Blanc, and maybe even the Johannisberg Riesling. The list goes on and on and something they have should satisfy anyone that goes. They welcome picnics on their property and it's as easy as walking up to the outdoor bar and bringing an open bottle back to your group. On busy weekends, it may get crowded with families and kids playing, but its always relaxing.

Osprey's Dominion Cabernet Franc 2002
North Fork, Long Island, New York, USA ($24)

The 2000, 2001, and 2002 Cabernet Francs have been among the best in the region. They have been known to mix in a splash of Merlot to round it out some but the 2002 is pure Franc. The wine spends 12 months in French oak and the alcohol weighs in at 13%.

Dark ruby red color. Aromas of cherry, raspberry, and bell pepper. Textbook mouth feel as far as I'm concerned. A slightly tart food friendly acidity is obvious and welcome. This is not for the fruit bomb lovers out there as the fruit is subtle and in lockstep with the spice and herbal qualities. What really separates this wine from similar ones is its long delicate spicy finish. My grade: B+

Finger Lakin Good Cab Franc

My passion for all things Cabernet Franc hasn't let up in the time I've been grossly neglecting this blog. Although I've tasted a few that made me rethink it as being my favorite varietal. It's just so damn hard to balance out the acidity and fruit with the green characteristics of most of the cool weather francs I consume. These thoughts began after I drank a deliciously large and juicy one from Castello di Borghese on Long Island. Unlike any other I've drank from that area, it was dark and mysterious, complex and relentless on the finish. The kid over at Vintage New York endorsed it as one that will "rock my world" and in some ways it did, though without the herbal notes I associate with the grape. Was I beginning to prefer the more ripe and extracted style of this wine?

Ravines Wine Cellars Cabernet Franc 2005
Keuka Lake, Finger Lakes, New York ($18)

Turns out the answer is no. Jay over at The Wine Chicks pointed me to a Finger Lakes Cab Franc from Ravines Wine Cellars recently. This bottle from the 2005 vintage had everything I love about this varietal. Cherry and blackberry flavors mixed with spicy herbal notes combined with oak aging that amplifies the complexity and length in the finish. Since I haven't tried too many Finger Lakes Cab Francs, this one easily takes the prize as the best I've tasted. That being said, I look forward to trying Dr. Frank's version also from the east side of Keuka Lake.

New York State Wine Harvest Update

Word is that it is a good harvest at New York State Vineyards this fall. This article mentions that the Finger Lakes Riesling and Cabernet Franc crops are superb.

Forty Dollars a Day

"Best Red in Show" in the Sunlight

It's amazing how the value of a dollar can change within the coarse of the day. During a recent trip to the Northfork of Long Island, my opinion of spending $40 on a Cab Franc went from a skeptical "yeah right" to a somewhat slurred "put it on the Visa." My anticipation of visiting Jamesport Vineyards had been growing all season. A "Best Cab Franc" award at the New York Food and Wine festival only fueled my interest and I'm not even going to mention the Wine Advocate blurbs about Jamesport's wines. Osprey's Dominion 2001 Cab Franc won the same "Best Red" and "Best Cab Franc" the previous year and I love that wine enough to give it credit for my current addiction to the varietal.

After insisting we stop at Jamesport first during our recent visit I was amped to get a taste of their reds. Because we went on the weekend the tasting room was overwhelmed with buses and "weekenders." No clean glasses and my refusal to taste in plastic denied my taste buds for a little while longer, but when I finally got my flight I wasn't disappointed at all. The 2001 Merlot Reserve was lush and concentrated with cherries and plums. It had everything I have come to love Long Island wines including a perfect balance of fruit and oak with that terroir of the North Fork. The acclaimed Cabernet Franc 2004 was just as good as the hype that surrounds it. Aromas of red berries and smoke with a elegantly soft mouth feel and a palate that whispered strawberry. The finish was delicate and subtle. It didn't have the spiciness that I expected with only a slight herbal quality yet still delicious and unique to the region.

My only disappointment with my experience there was the prices. Both of these reds were priced roughly at $40. Similar Cab Francs at Osprey's Dominion and Corey Creek Cellars that are equally as satisfying are almost half the price. With my current budget combined with the amount of wine I buy in general, a $40 wine makes its way into my home a few times a year. Long story short...I passed on a purchase of the Cab Franc at Jamesport.

Key Lime Pie at EON in Southold

After lunch at EON (duck salad and key lime pie - Shinn Rose and Corey Creek Cab Franc) in Southold and tastings at Castello di Borghese our journey led us to Shinn Estate Vineyards. Shinn is a small winery that practices sustainable agriculture. Their tasting room is a tiny room in a renovated old barn that oozes with quaintness. The owners are on hand to pour and answer questions, and even ring you up after you splurge on a few bottles. Stand-out wines tasted were "Wild Boar Doe" 2004 and their 2005 Rose. I was bummed when I found out they weren't pouring their Cab Franc, but after some of my charming nosiness, co-owner Barbara Shinn indeed let me know there just happened to be an open bottle behind the bar. From what I remember there are only 1 1/2 acres of cab franc planted there and only 170 cases made of this 2004 vintage which has a price tag of around $40. For some reason I didn't mind shelling out the cash for this bottle. Maybe because there's not that much of it going around, maybe it was the organic vineyards or the humble tasting room, or maybe it was because it resembled a mom and pop business that made my decision easy. In hindsight it may have been all the alcohol, but after being wooed by the ambience of the North Fork, I found myself completely doing a 180 and heading home with a $40 bottle that I'm sure will just cause me anxiety when I decide when to open it. Cheers to that!

Shinn Estate tasting room