Water into Wino

J.P. Tinto 2003

J.P. Tinto 2003
Setubul Peninsula, Portugal ($6)

It's not much of a secret anymore that Portuguese reds can be quite satisfying for a fraction of the cost of the competition. I figure that these wineries never became obsessed with single varietal releases, never spent the big bucks on marketing, and never got into the Parker influenced over the top fruit flavors that people seem to look for these days. On a recent trip to a wine "outlet" the other day I found an inexpensive bottle all alone on the shelf. Psychologically speaking when I see the last bottle on a shelf I feel one of two things. One, it must be good if the rest have already been bought. Two, what if I like it and now I know I can't get anymore?

For six bucks, I had nothing to lose. This bottle is not your average Portuguese red. It comes from the Setubal Peninsula, an area I don't see often and instead of being a carefully crafted blend of indigenous grapes, it one one single varietal called Castelao or Periquita.

Ruby red in color, this wine is noticeably lighter than any red I've had from Portugal. On the nose I got dark cherry, blackberry, and black pepper. There was a noticeable element of funk coming through as well, with manure being the best word to describe it. Luckily it didn't show on my palate as this wine was quite pleasing. The word balanced comes to mind because this wine just simply went down well. Simple yet charming, it was a perfect week night match for that pizza or pasta dish. The finish was adequate, with little or no sign of oak lingering. For six bucks, I'd pick up a couple more if I can ever find it again. Grade: B-

International Night Portuguese Style

Portugal was the destination of choice for my girlfriend's weekend "International Night" extravaganza. I was stoked by the possibility of finding inexpensive wines that most people would never bother drinking, and in most cases, never even locate. I also like to geek out on music for these dinners and this time I sparred no expense and abused my itunes account with another impulsive purchase. The music of the night was Guitarra Portuguesa by Carlos Paredes.

Quinta de Pancas Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Portugal ($12)

The evening started with some olives, breadsticks, and dates accompanied with this Portuguese Cabernet. Old world comes to mind when describing this bottle. Medium body and well balanced with dark fruit. While lacking in the common overripeness of most cabs, it secured my attention with rustic earth accents and a graceful finish. Since most of the Portuguese reds I've had are native grape intensive, this was new to me.

Senorio de Sarria Crianza 1999
Navarra, Spain ($12)

The soup course, sopa de couves, was from Leite's Culinaria, a website run by David Leite which features some tasty Portuguese recipes as well as other cuisine. It is mainly chorizo, kale, and potatoes. My pairing reference book suggested, amongst others things, a Spanish red from Navarra. This tempranillo based crianza boasted soft as a baby's ass tannins and an extremely gentle structure of red berry fruit and cedar. Along with the chorizo, it was pairing perfection. This wine whispered old world and I loved every sip with the soup.

Esporao Reserva 2005
Alentejo, Portugal ($10)

From the same website came Porco con Ameijoas a Alenteniana, or in gringo terms, pork with clams. Vinho Verde would have been satisfactory, but my friend went above and beyond again with a couple bottles of a Portuguese blend of native Roupeiro, Arinto, and Anttao Vaz. Living in the Portuguese capitol of Long Island, or Mineola, has payed off several times over. This white was delicious as well. Full bodied with a sexy buttery oak flavor that added depth and complexity, this wine finished was a hint of sweetness. Another perfect pairing.

Dessert included Pasteis de Coco, coconut-custard tarts. What's Portuguese night without Port? I didn't want to find out so we ended with an Osprey's Dominion Port. Not bad at all.