Water into Wino

Revived by the New York Times and Austria

Zweigelt in the nude.

When I think of exciting grapes currently being experimented with in the Finger Lakes and Niagara Wine countries, there are three or four that get my blood flowing. The first is Syrah. Not those jammified Syrahs that you can find anywhere. I'm talking about cool climate ones that combine good acidity with pepper and light tannins.

The other two grapes are the Austrian grapes Gruner Veltliner, Blaufrankisch, and Zweigelt. Spelling them is tough enough let alone pronouncing them. I know Hermann Wiemer is growing Blaufrankisch and Gruner Veltliner, funny enough cause I picked up a couple of each last time I visited the winery. Currently I believe they are just blending grapes in his arsenal. I've tried Lemberger, our not much friendlier name for Blaufrankisch, from Fox Run Vineyards, Goosewatch, and Seneca Shore Vineyards in the Finger Lakes. The latter of the three was surprisingly my favorite. As for Zweigelt, a cross of St. Laurent and Blaufrankisch, I know Konzelmann Winery in Ontario makes it as well as a few others wineries in Canada.

All this wine geek banter takes me to my point and the reason I got excited enough to update my site while I run around in circles of sh*t to do in my new country home. The New York Times done did an article and an interactive feature on Zweigelt and Blaufrankisch the other day. Cheers to that. The reviews were obviously Austria intensive as they should have been, while fascinating at the same time. Too bad I'm not in NYC anymore cause I don't think I'll find these wines in my area. So if you can, try some of them for me.

A tasting and two bottles...

I managed to motivate myself to Astor Wines last Saturday for a 10 winemaker event representing the natural wines of Jenny and Francios. This store has thrown down some large tastings in the past and I was looking forward to this one. While I'm not one to complain or tell a store how they should run their business, but I thought that Astor just didn't take advantage of the colossal space they have. They put three winemakers at their new tasting bar and the other seven shoulder to shoulder at one not so long table. It wasn't a recipe for a personable wine tasting that invites questions and conversation. Anyway since I don't speak French I probably wouldn't have learned much anyway.

While I was there I had to pick up a couple bottles. In my search for cool climate grape based wines, I chose a Lemberger from Washington State vineyards that Dr. Vino has recommended in the past. My addiction to south american wines lured me into buying a cheap Syrah from Uraguay as well. It wasn't more than two days later I had gone through both and now I can't wait to get my hands on one of them again.

Shooting Star Blue Franc 2004
Yakima Valley, Washington ($15)

Jed Steele bottles his Yakima Valley Lemberger (aka Blaufrankisch) in California under his Shooting Star label. Finding the name to be lacking in marketability, he choose the Blue Franc title and included a French Franc note to grace the bottle. I've had a couple bottles of Lemberger recently, one from Austria and another from the Fox Run Winery in the Finger Lakes.

Ruby red color. Earthy aromas of red berries and spice. Juicy mouth feel with supple tannins. Very soft and round. This really reminded me of Cab Franc on the nose and Syrah in flavor with Carmenere like sweet tannins. Anyone who reads this blog should know this is the kind of wine I would get excited about. The finish is average, and I think the lack of oak limits the length, but the ripe fruit and spice make up for it. My grade: A-

Monte De Luz Syrah 2005
San Jose, Uruguay ($7)

Only my second wine from Uruguay, this bottle was only $7 and I figured it was worth a shot. The other wine I had from this country was a Tannat and Cab Franc based blend. It wasn't anything to write home about so my expectations for this one in the same price range weren't high.

Smoky dark fruit aroma and purple in color. The flavor was similar to an over ripe Merlot and extremely one dimensional. Slightly acidic with obvious heat on the finish. I didn't even come close to finishing this wine. My grade: C-

Fairview Goat Roti 2003

Fairview Charles Back Goat Roti 2003
Western Cape, South Africa ($16)

Funny critters and puns make for a a powerful marketing ploy. Fairview, the South African creator of Goats do Roam, makes a more expensive wine that salutes the Cote Rotie Syrah based wines of France. Since I've been getting in touch with my inner Syrah I could not resist this attempt at an affordable new world version.

I got some red berry aromas and a generous whiff of bacon fat....yum! It took a while for this one to open up though. Fully rustic in texture and sultry in taste this one had me confused. It came hard with a mouthful of fruit, but I also was stunned by an unflattering acidity. Turns out it came hard with fruit, acid, and tannins that i compare to being slapped in the face. It cleared up to a long spicy finish but the middle palate just wasn't pleasant. I don't know if it will calm down over some time in the bottle or what. Not worth the $16 I shelled out. My grade: C

WBW #30 New World Syrah

I must sound like a broken record. It seems like every wine I write about lately is from Chile. Well I just can't help it. The price to quality ratio of these wines is impressive. The Carmeneres are basically free. The Cab Sauvignon and Merlots are usually half of what I'd pay for a comparable domestic version. The Pinot Noir can be satisfying while still accessible under $20. For some reason Chilean Syrah is undeniably more expensive then the other varietals. While the bargain wines I've had before are consistently a pleasant surprise, at $20 I'm expecting a $35 flavor profile that will rock my palate.

Casa Lapostolle Winery was founded in 1994 by the Marnier Lapostolle family from France and the Rabat family from Chile. The French connection are founders and owners of Grand Marnier ( of the Spirit fame) and have been winegrowers in the Loire Valley. They own 300 hectacres and produce 150,000 cases, including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carmenere, and Syrah.

Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre Syrah 2004
Cachapoal Valley, Chile ($22)

This Syrah is grown in rocky Las Kuras Vineyard of Requinoa, in the Cachapoal Valley, and it's from their midlevel Cuvee Alexandre series. It's made from 100% Syrah grapes grown after a dry 2003 season which resulted in budding some 10 days earlier than average. What's really crazy is that there was no rain registered that summer at all. The wine was aged for 21 months in new French oak barrels and it weighs in at 14.5% alcohol.

Dark purple in color. The nose took a while to open up, but when it did it revealed definite meat aromas with ripe dark fruits. This wine feels very fleshy and full bodied. I get some complex notes that include chocolate and cigar box. Overall, it's well balanced and persistent on the finish. While I do find this wine to be worth the $20 I paid, it's not as intriguing as the Montes Alpha Syrah I tasted a few weeks ago. It went extremely well with the sausage and peppers I had for dinner and got better with every sip I took. My grade: A-

Rooster vs Quail > Syrah under $10

From time to time I am called upon to bring a couple bottles to a social event with friends. In our circle we average about 3/4 bottle per person, down from the careless one bottle average of 2005. My unmatched enthusiasm encourages purchases of similar wines at the same price point. Let's face it... side by side tastings are the best way to really pinpoint what we like about a particular wine.

Since the wines are drank with dinner, we don't really spend a lot of time analyzing, but I do try to get a general consensus on which one was preferred. These wines most likely aren't decanted, and the order I drink them may not be ideal. Some may have been paired dreadfully or followed a whiskey or two.

My first head to head review is influenced by my recent interest in new world Syrah. I've had a couple $20 bottles that I'd drink again, but I can't afford that regularly. So I'm on the look out for a cheap Syrah in which I can rely. I want to stay away from obvious high alcohol stuff and the Aussie stuff for now. Both of the following wines are $10 or under.

Covey Run Syrah 2003
Columbia Valley, Washington State USA ($9)

I keep getting pleasant surprises from Washington wine. This Syrah was balanced and juicy. The nose didn't impress but it was overall a satisfying table wine that I can drink without frowning. The combination of a quick finish and moderate acidity makes for a good food wine. This winery is a mega producer and their $6 and $7 Merlots and Cab Suavignons are quaffable and easily found.

Hahn Estates Syrah 2003
Monterey County, California USA ($10)

Concentrated plum and toasty oak on the nose. This deep dark purple wine has lip smacking tannins and and some plum fruit. The oak steals the show as the fruit struggles to compete for tongue time. The finish is much longer than the Covey Run with a spice that ads complexity to an otherwise dull wine. It also seemed to dish up a little more heat. I remain on the look out for those "cool climate" Syrahs in California under $15.

My preference was for the Covey Run Syrah. Its juiciness and overall balance leaves nothing to regret for $9. A good friend of mine was moved by the finish of the Hahn Syrah though. She has been preferring bigger wines lately and her favorite was the the Monterey wine.

My first Syrah from Chile

Chile. Chile. Chile. I find myself thinking that every time I enter a wine store. Do I splurge on a $20 Chilean bottle or just get three bottles of a $6 Carmenere or Cab Sauvignon? Well now that I'm on a Syrah kick, that question becomes an easy one.

My interest In Vina Montes wines began when my friend pointed out a Wall Street Journal review of bargain Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon. Their Montes Reserve Cabernet won best of tasting at only $9 a bottle. I've since tried their limited series Cabernet and Carmenere blend. For only $13 it is a huge wine. The fruit of the Cab and the smoky and herbaceous Carmenere balances well with its toasty finish.

Montes Alpha Syrah 2003
Colchagua Valley, Chile ($20)

The Alpha Series is a mid level range wines which include Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Syrah. The Syrah grapes are grown at the Apalta Vineyard, in the Colchagua Valley, an area of steep hillsides in the higher elevations. The wine is aged in French Oak for one year and about 7000 cases imported into the USA. I picked this one up for $20 but I'm sure it can be found for as little as $16 online.

Ruby red color with concentrated aromas of black cherries and tobacco. Earth and floral aromas as well. Big and soft on the palate with some spice, some vanilla, as well as bitter chocalate. The finish is excellent in its length but the fruit fades a bit to fast. The 10% Cabernet Sauvignon gives this some power but it remains generous and elegant in the end. It's not as masculine as the Columbia Winery Syrah I tried recently, but just as delicious and more exotic. My grade: A-

Columbia Winery Syrah 2002

The latest varietal to fall victim to my obsessive and compulsive personality is Syrah. Sadly most of the stuff I've had has been jammy Shiraz from Australia, and I do remember there being a critter or two on the labels. Since some of the most sought after wines in France are Syrah based, and seeing how the most complex examples of this wine are grown in the cooler appellations of the world, I figured it might be fun to throw my not so expendable income at this grape for a while and see what's worth drinking. That is, of course, without dropping the big money for the Cote Roties and Hermitages. I've heard that California is producing some kick ass Syrah, but what don't they produce over there? So I am more interested in the Washington State, Canadian, Chilean, and even some New York examples.

Columbia Winery Syrah 2002
Columbia Valley, Washington ($13)

This 100% Syrah is from four different vineyards in the Columbia Valley. It's 13.5% alcohol and it was released in fall of 2005. There were 6500 cases produced and I assume that with a little searching most people could get their hands on a bottle. Apparently the winery was founded by 10 University of Washington professors that thought they could grow vinifera that would survive the harsh winters of the area and deliver quality over time. Apparently they were right. I found this bottle for $13 but I've seen it online for as much as $19.

Deep ruby red color. The nose is generous with dark red fruit and anise. It's silky texture is full of ripe fruit and some smokiness that is in perfect balance with the other flavors. This wine got better with time and I think it even improved over night as I took another run at it the next day. It's an extremely masculine wine that is great for sipping or would do well with roasted meats. It makes me want to try more Syrah from Washington State and maybe pick up a few bottles of this as well. My grade: A-

Northern Rhone for $13

My knowledge of French wine is extremely limited. I can pretty much contribute to a conversation on Italian wines, Spanish wines, and New World wines with some serious wine geeks. If someone brings up France, I run for cover. Sure I know what the major grape varieties of each region should be... but don't ask me to pronounce the area or the producers' name correctly.

My last investigation into a French bottle was for New Year's eve dinner. The cheese plate my friend was preparing called for a Northern Rhone red as a pairing. My gut reaction and only reaction was finding a Cote Rotie wine. I know enough to assume that finding an affordable bottle may be difficult. So after picking out seven bottles for the other courses including a dry Riesling, a Chinon Rose, an Osprey's Dominion Reserve Merlot 2002, Rosa Regale sparkling red, and a decent bottle of Champagne, we ran into another liquor store where we could be helped to find that Northern Rhone bottle. After mentioning our remaining budget of up to $30 for the bottle, the store employee handing us a bottle from Gigondas sub region. "Is this mostly Syrah?", I asked. "Yes and some Grenache as well", he replied. Sold!

Of course when I got home and googled it, it turns out to be from Southern Rhone. It tasted fine and didn't take away from the cheese plate but I made up my mind to find an affordable wine from the North. Another stab at the wine store turned up this bottle from Crozes Hermitage area for $13.

Cave de Tain Crozes de Hermitage 2003
Crozes Hermitage, Rhone, France ($13)

Ruby red color with a nose of red fruit and red licorice with a slight note of pepper. Light to medium body feel with flavors of cranberry and cherry. There is a dominating tartness that ruins the finish of this wine. It simply demands food with the acidity overwhelming the spice and fruit. Interesting wine until the finish. I find myself enjoying the cooler weather reds these days and can see the potential in a wine like this being spectacular if only a little more balanced. My grade: C+

The Wishing Tree Shiraz 2004

The Wishing Tree Shiraz 2004
Australia, Southwestern ($11)

My recent interest in Aussie wines as well as my desire to never miss a best buy led me to this bottle. Made up of 66% Western Australia grapes and 34% South Australia grapes, this wine has been listed as a bargain, and with 20,000 cases made, it seems to be easy enough to find. Even though it's sealed with a screw cap, I still picked one up. My traditional preference for corks isn't always practical, so if I am going to just open the wine when I get it home anyway, a screw cap is okay I guess.

I found this wine to be very drinkable. Aromas of cranberry, blackberry, and pepper are evident. Nice smooth palate of ripe cherries and blackberries. Spicy notes follow with a lingering peppery accent. This wine has a lighter body than I expect in a Shiraz. The tannins are very soft, leading to what I feel is a mouth cleansing finish that would compliment food easily. There was a slight fizz in the texture when I first opened it. Pouring it into my decanter and waiting twenty minutes took care of that, giving way to the supple texture I enjoyed. My grade: B

Southern Style BBQ

International Night reared its hungry head at my place last week. It was my girlfriends turn to cook for us. Breaking away from the not so unusual themes of French, Italian, and Latin, she made BBQ pork sandwiches with cole slaw, baked beans, and roasted potato wedges.

My choice of wine for the dinner was one I had drank before. My recent Spanish wine kick taught me that a wine imported by Jorge Ordonez is never a let down. So I chose a $10 tempranillo at a neighborhood liquor store. A friend of mine brought over a California Rosso table wine and another brought an Australian Shiraz.

Niebaum-Coppola Francis Coppola Rosso Classic 2004 California ($9)

Deep violet color and medium bodied. Cherries and berries are evident with an almost refreshing fruity taste. Definetely not complex but a decent table wine. Had some sharp white chedder with it. Probably not a best buy at $9.

Penfolds Shiraz Thomas Hyland 2003 Australia, Southeastern ($15)

Dark berry nose with a fleshy plum and berry taste. Subtle spice and well rounded tannins make this a pleasurable wine that has a long satisfying finish. I tasted some spice at the end from the oak which was very well balanced with the fruit and alcohol. Went very well with my BBQ pork sandwich. A $15 price tag doesn't make this a best buy but a predictably good buy that delivers. My grade: B

Elaborado Y Embotellado Manoamano 2003 Spain, La Mancha ($10)

100% tempranillo aged in french oak for six months creates this well balanced robust wine that was just what I needed to down the last bites of my BBQ pork dinner. There wasn't as much spice as in the previous Shiraz, and wasn't velvety like the Shiraz, but it was as complex a wine as I would need as the night came to an end. I wouldn't dare try to score this wine because my judgement was overwhelmed from stuffing my face. It gets my nod of approval and it will end of on my table again in the future.