Water into Wino

Revolution Bandol 2003

Tour du Bon Revolution Bandol 2003
Bandol, France ($13)

As much as I dig the wine blogosphere I still get tremendous value from reading a few regular wine columns written by people that actually make a living with the pen. Eric Asimov’s work for the New York Times always puts me in the mood to go out and pick up something different and he recently wrote a piece entitled “A Sturdy Red for Winter” that got me excited about the Mourvedre grape.

I’ve drank many wines that use this grape as a building block and I’ve certainly had my share of jammy Spanish Monastrell in my day but I’ve never had anything from Bandol. When a wine writer like Asimov uses terms like haunting, savage and wild I’m on board to spend a few bucks and see what this region is all about.

I didn’t easily find what I was looking for until I cam across this Domaine de la Tour du Bon Revolution Bandol 2003 made up of 60% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache and 10% Cinsault.

Aromas of sour cherry, red plum, loam, red apple skin, licorice and cocoa were complimented by a touch of barnyard. The mouth-feel was all about the rustic granular tannins and balanced acidity. Full and fleshy on the mid-palate, it didn’t lose any momentum with its lingering bitter dark chocolate finish.

Simply put this wine was fun. Dark and rustic, dirty and ripe I just dug the style. I think the age helped this one out as I can imagine it being a little less charming if it was showing these tannins in their youth. Bandol is now officially on my radar.

Revisiting An Old Flame: Copertino Riserva 2001

Cantina Sociale Copertino Riserva 2001
Puglia, Italy ($18)

One of my philosophies in wine drinking is quite simply “Life is too short to drink the same wine twice.” Now there are a few exceptions. One is when you are bringing a bottle to a tasting or dinner where the purpose is to pour wine for other geeks. Another is when you buy several bottles and cellar them for future enjoyment.

Vintage variation is a third reason to drink a familiar wine and was ultimately my intention for buying this Copertino. I’d originally had the 1999 vintage in 2005 and was sold on the rustic reds of the Salento region. Copertino is known for rich smooth reds made from Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera grapes.

Since this bottle was going on 10 years of bottle age I was slightly hesitant to give it a try but my appreciation of the 1999 vintage solidified my investment. The store employee also said he looked it up and it was still drinking well before offering me a part time job at the store.

Brick red color with primary aromas of barnyard, tar, stewed red fruit and spice. In the mouth it was still showing good fruit with structure and tannins. The age was pretty obvious as it was extremely smooth and graceful leaving any rusticity only to be found in its aroma and flavor. The finish was long and dirty in a good way.

This bottle totally reawakened my desire for southern Italian reds. It seems like too many I’ve had recently are more new world than old with only ripe to overripe black fruit and vanilla to show. These older bottles from smaller producers still have the charm and distinctive Italian earthiness I expect from Salento. I’d buy this one again…to show friends of course.

Warwick First Lady 2008

Warwick The First Lady 2008
Western Cape, South Africa ($15)

There are a few producers in South Africa I have come to appreciate enough that I will pretty much buy anything they put their name on. Rustenberg is one. Rust En Vrede, and Warwick are two more. Among these producers Warwick is pretty much the easiest one I can find in the Buffalo area and I assume that goes for other small markets in the US.

This bottle of Warwick First Lady 2008 is available at Premium Wines & Spirits for about $15. Having had the delicious Three Cape Ladies Blend from Warwick, I was more than eager to give this 97% Cabernet Sauvignon with 3% Petit Verdot wine a go. I have to admit that I generally stay away from Cabernet Sauvignon unless it’s from cooler climates but I figured this one would have enough character to keep my attention.

This nicely extracted Cab showed juicy aromas of black currant, blackberry and other sweet black fruits with layers of smoke and charcoal. I also picked up some savory cured meat notes, which I am always a fan of. The palate was generously smooth with delicate tannins allowing just enough grip to be noticeable.

Overall it was a very easy going Cabernet Sauvignon. The smoke and meat aromas gave it its distinctive South African personality, which was definitely what I was hoping for with this purchase. Next time you’re looking a mid priced Cabernet I’d skip California, ignore South America and head straight to the SA section of your store and look for this one.

Duo of SA Sauvignon Blanc: Uva Mira & Edgebaston

It’s time to make that Sauvignon Blanc decision. You have about $15 to spend. You are met with bottles from California, France, Chile, New Zealand and South Africa at your local store.

Do you appreciate some grassiness or what some so delicately describe as cat pee? If you do maybe you ought to go for the Kiwi bottle.

Are you familiar with French as a first language or are you beyond the beginner level wine drinker you can go for some Sancere. That is if you recognize the producer as being first rate, the vintage as being decent and the price as being reasonable.

Are you California dreaming then go for the weighty Cali Sauvignon Blanc, but if you’re looking for value first and foremost and prefer clean tropical fruit with some richness and fresh acidity? Then maybe Chilean SB is the answer for you.

Most days I’m looking to get a Sauvignon Blanc with ripe fruit flavors, without cat pee, with a hint of green and most importantly some stoniness or minerality that comes with a winning combination of richness and acidity. For my $15 I’m finding South Africa to bring everything I’m looking for. That being said here are two bottles that I can vouch for.

The Uva Mira 2008 Sauvignon Blanc was found at Global Wine & Spirits where they currently seem to have some decent specials on their South African stuff. Aromas of lime, gooseberry and tropical fruit jumped out of my glass during a recent picnic at Niagara Falls State Park. Simply perfect for a warm summer day and made even more perfect with the wedge of Humboldt Fog goat cheese we brought with us.

With no hint of grass or cat pee it showed ripe aromas with a rich palate. Clean from start to finish this particular wine showed almost more like the Chilean stuff I’ve had. It went over well with my friends and I’d highly recommend it.

The Edgebaston Sauvignon Blanc 2008 was bought at Prime Wines for an absurd price of $12. My first perception of this wine was that it had much more in common with Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc as the flavors didn’t get very tropical at all. On the nose subtle notes of white peach, lime, flint and wet stone made it almost difficult to place as new world Sauvignon Blanc. Only the slightest hint of green in the form of cut grass showed against the rest of the ripe fruit aromas.

Where this wine really spoke was its palate. Lean and focused with clean acidity and just enough richness to bring it all together into one cohesive tasting experience. For the money it’s one of the best value whites I’ve had from South Africa. Its charm is that I’m not sure there’s a more complex SB for the money in the region or even world at this point. And yes, that includes Chile.

Mauro Molino Nebbiolo 2005: An Italian Inspiration

Mauro Molino Nebbiolo 2005
Langhe, Piedmont, Italy ($16)

There are some foods that demand a thoughtful wine pairing to give them the recognition they have earned. Champagne and caviar comes to mind and so does Chablis and oysters, not to mention wine pairing at its simplest with Cabernet and steak. We often figure out the menu and then choose a wine to go with it.

In my wine philosophy it’s just as important to decide what you’re drinking first and decide what to cook based on that. More than not it’s an Italian wine that motivates my recipe searches for a compatible Italian inspired meal. If I’m not using the web as a reference my go to Italian recipe guide is Mario Batali’s Molto Mario cookbook.

Having already made a meat ragu the previous night, an unopened bottle of Mauro Molino Nebbiolo 2005 rallied my attention span long enough to make some homemade gnocchi to hold the aforementioned ragu. Since any time-intensive cooking needs wine for drinking I opened up this bottle while prepping the potatoes.

In the glass the wine immediately showed its Italian roots with dried cherry, chalk and tar aromas. While showing extremely ripe aromas it still revealed a lively strawberry fruit leather note along with some seductive dark chocolate and cinnamon notes. The nose just hit my sweet spot as its what I look for in Italian reds.

On the palate it didn’t miss a beat with its gravelly tannins and fresh acidity. There was just enough flesh to keep it mouth filling and full enough to play well with its rustic feel. The finish was surprisingly delicate with just enough fruit and fine tannic grip to keep it from being too thin.

Paired with my gnocchi the overall meal was dynamite. The delicate gnocchi with rich sauce was the perfect partner for this Nebbiolo. The combo was as good a meal as I’ve had in years and the wine itself made a case for me buying another bottle as soon as I can. For $16 I don’t even want to know what other people are drinking when they can find a wine like this for the same dough.

A Duo of Non-Chilean Carmenere

Wines made from the Carmenere grape have always been fun for me. It’s one of the first grapes that I became obsessed with that no one else in my circle of drinking buddies knew anything about. It seems like I never got sick of throwing down ten bucks for a rich, fruity, spicy wine that outshined other bottles at twice the price.

With time and a more developed palate come downsides and my appreciation of most cheap Carmenere has diminished as I generally prefer wines with more acidity. I’m noticing overripe flavors more these days and generally bulk made wines are as exciting as drinking Coors Light or Bud. I know there is outstanding Chilean Carmenere in the $20-$40 price range but hey, there’s a ton of great wine around the world in that price range, so I don’t often taste at that price point.

Luckily a few bottles made their way into my possession that renewed my curiosity in Bordeaux’s forgotten grape. First off I found a bottle of Inama Carmenere Piu 2006 from the Veneto Region of Italy at Vino Aroma in Williamsville NY. Only a few days later my friends from Long Island surprised me with a bottle of Osprey’s Dominion Carmenere 2007, which is, the only New York State grown Carmenere I know of.

I recently opened up both of these bottles back to back and was blown away by the differences among them and overall when compared to Chilean Carmenere.

The Osprey’s Carmenere had a familiar tone that I got with Long Island reds and this winery specifically; that is a tight core of fruit with fresh acidity and a gentle rusticity. The blackberry aromas were pure and spicy with hints of black cherry and tobacco. There was a polished feel to this wine that gave it a universal appeal while making the case that Carmenere can work as well as Cabernet Franc on Long Island, especially in warm years like 2007.

The Inama Carmenere Piu 2006 was a different wine entirely. On the nose it showed much more funk and chocolate notes with its fruit presence of plum and black currant taking a back seat to the barnyard, smoke and tar aromas. The mouth feel was simply stunning with rustic tannins and smooth acidity that filled out the palate while sticking around long enough to leave a delicate chocolate tootsie roll meets black fruit finish.

Fruit loving drinkers will appreciate the Osprey’s for its pure fruit and luxurious structure while those that seek rustic more eccentric flavors may find the Inama to be just what they are looking for. Personally, I loved both for their original take on the grape. Both went beyond the jammy overripe traits I often find in lower priced versions. I’d love to get these wines together again and pour them with Chilean versions in the same price range and see how they go over as it looks like I’m not anywhere near done being excited about this grape.

Atwater Dry Riesling 2007

Atwater Dry Riesling 2007
Finger Lakes, New York ($17)

There are just too many stunning Rieslings being made in the Finger Lakes to keep track of these days. Even though producers like Wiemer, Dr. Frank and Anthony Road tend to get the loudest press there are dozens of wineries making world-class versions in every style imaginable.

My past perception of Atwater is that they are a consistent producer that does everything well while not having one headlining wine or line of wines. If it weren’t for this bottle being sent as a part of several Taste NY samples, I probably would have over looked it on the shelf.

Pale gold in the glass, this Riesling jumps out of the glass with mandarin orange, peach and lime with some light petrol notes. For lack of a better description, the nose to me was very German. Fresh and lively on the palate with refreshing acidity in the package of a supple mouth feel. It finishes clean and delicious.

I was very impressed with this Atwater wine. Combining intense aromas, fresh acidity and a delicate palate this wine showed some serious structure. At this point the petrol notes are well incorporated but they may become off putting in time though. We’ll have to wait and see. In a playing field of many great Rieslings this one still shows that it can compete with the rest in the region, adding Atwater to the list of producers I mentioned at the top of this post.

Falesco Vitiano 2007: Italian Value Meets American Palates

Falesco Vitiano 2007
Umbria, Italy ($12)

There are countless times when you are looking for an interesting wine under $15 and get stuck with the same old mass produced California, Spanish or South American selections to choose from. Italian options in this range and style are limited to cheap Chianti, large format Montepulciano D’Abruzzo or if your lucky some decent Puglian bottles.

Unfortunately Chinati tends to be simple, Montepulciano tends to be thin and Puglian stuff can get overripe and dumb with vanilla and oak. This bottle of Falesco Vitiano is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in the style of a super Tuscan that makes a case for your twelve bucks.

When I got past the initial aromas of alcohol I picked up some ripe plum, black currant, raisin and a hefty dose of vanilla. Rich and creamy on the palate with only a hint of astringency that ultimately keeps it food friendly. Overall dense and ripe without coming off as sweet, it has just enough subtle earth notes that I could peg it as Italian.

Since it’s easy on the wallet and easy to find, this wine is interesting enough for the geeks and friendly enough for newbies as it finds a happy median between old world and new. The Falesco Vitiano 2007 is where bulk wine and interesting value Italian wine come together to flirt with being overripe.

Statti Gaglioppo 2007: A Reason to Revisit the Italian Aisle

Statti Gaglioppo Rosso 2007
Calabria, Italy ($19)

Walking down the Italian red aisle at my local wine store with $20 in hand isn’t as exciting as it used to be. Let’s face it countries like Italy, France and Germany aren’t known for value. In the past my go to choices would have been Montepulciano D’Abruzzo, Salice Salentino or a decent Dolcetto but these days I’m looking to try something new and these choices just won’t cut it.

Turns out a recent stop at Premium Wine & Spirits in Williamsville, NY turned up something inspiring from Calabria as Statti’s Gaglioppo 2007 was a label I hadn’t seen before. This 12.5% alcohol by volume wine from what I consider to be one of the warmer regions of Italy was accompanied by solid reviews from Tanzer and Spectator. Looking forward to my first taste of a Gaglioppo wine, I picked it up for $19.

First off the nose hit me over the head with black raspberry, which I found extremely reminiscent of Perry’s black raspberry ice cream. As it opened up it revealed some grapey notes along with more rustic aromas of tree bark and sour cherry. Its lively acidity and rustic tannins combined in the form of some slight astringency but nothing that a proper food pairing wouldn’t appreciate. The finish was strong with a lingering bittersweet chocolate flavor.

Overall a well made wine that certainly had its own style and flavor. The astringency dissipated on day two smoothing it out and making a case for this being a wine that can stand alone. Bottles like this remind me that Italian wine can never get boring even if you’re on a modest budget.

Rustenberg John X Merriman 2005

Rustenberg John X Merriman 2005
SImonsberg-Stellenbosch, South Africa ($30)

My curiosity with South African red blends lead me to this blend of 54% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec and 1% Shiraz from Rustenberg. Good reviews from the NYwinewench and WE prompted yet another purchase of a Stellenbosch wine, and this one is even more specific as it’s labeled as wine of origin Simonsberg-Stellenbosch.

The name of this wine is a tribute to John X Merriman, a Cape Parliamentarian, Minister of Agriculture and Prime Minister who bought the farm in 1892. He believed in the future of South Africa’s wine industry even after phylloxera devastated it. How did I know this? It says it on the bottle of course.

In the glass it shows crimson red with mouth-watering aromas of dark chocolate, spice cake, dark cherry, plum and some meatiness. Absolutely luxurious on the palate with ultra fine grained tannins and a mouth filling body. Despite such intense fruit and chocolaty sweetness it stays refreshingly balanced with its firm acidity. The finish is perpetual and as satisfying as I’ve had in recent memory.

As far as Bordeaux inspired blends go this one is a steal at the $25 to $30 price range. It drinks like a plus $50 red and in a few ways will probably outclass several in that range due to its complexity and overall mature nature. Great stuff and I’m dying to get my hands on more from this producer.

Sattler St. Laurent 2006

Sattler St. Laurent 2006
Burgenland, Austria ($18)

The St. Laurent grape is probably best know for being a proud parent of Zweigelt, if known at all. The other parent, Blaufrankisch has made quite a go by its alternate name, Lemberger, in the new world. St. Laurent hasn’t quite done the same and I suspect that even the most diehard wine geeks still haven’t tasted a wine made from this grape native to Austria.

I was one of the unconfirmed until I found a report on the promising nature of the grape in cooler climates including Prince Edward County, Ontario. A compilation of endorsements from wine importers and growers, this paper makes the case for planting the grape based on its potential for overall quality and its relatively short growing season (at least ten days earlier than pinot noir). Therry Theise called it “Pinot Noir with a savage touch” and author John Schriner has said “It comes across as Pinot Noir wearing hiking boots.”

With that my quest began. After scoping out the major wine stores of Buffalo I found one tiny suburban store that carries a Stattler 2006 St. Laurent from Burgenland. With a sleek steely label and an $18 price tag I couldn’t resist taking this one with me.

In the glass it appears deep purple with aromas of blueberry jam and blackberries with a slight gaminess. It’s lush on the palate with soft tannins and round feel but it’s noticeably lacking the acidity I associate with cool climate reds. The fruit is slightly lifted and I suspect that the grapes for this wine were slightly overripe.

This particular St. Laurent was fun and easy drinking yet I am not sold on it being such a hot grape to plant in areas where you can actually ripen pinot noir. With less ripeness and more acid it would have been something I’d pick up again. It’s a grape that every self declared wine geek should try and I’m satisfied that I added it to my palate portfolio.

Rust En Vrede Estate 2001

Rust En Vrede Estate 2001
Stellenbosch, South Africa ($40)

There aren’t many large wine regions left that I haven’t stuck my nose into in the last several years. If you haven’t noticed I tend to get a bee in my bonnet to try everything I can get my hands on from a certain grape, country or region until I feel like I can actually have an intelligent conversation about it. With this approach intelligence doesn’t come cheap and I usually make sure that if I do through down more than $20 for a wine, it better be a good representation of the region.

Inspired by a fellow Niagara Region writer and her blog Stellenbauchery, I have been on a South Africa kick. Ideally I’m looking for wines labeled as Wine of Origin Stellenbosch as I am curious to know what unique flavors and styles are coming out of the country’s premier wine region. The minimum buy in for these wines is typically from $13 for whites and $20 for reds. Much cheaper South African wines can be found labeled as Coastal Region or Western Cape but those don’t interest me as much.

According to the bottle of Rust En Vrede Estate 2001, this winery has been acclaimed as one of the best in the world. Now I would ever buy it just based on that claim but I’d been tipped off that they are consistently one of the best producers of reds in the region. It also helped that this bottle was marked down from $40 to $30, most likely motivated by its age and the average buyer’s lack of interest in this bottle. I left the store thinking I’d found a deal though as it was one of those wines that you can’t just leave on the shelf.

This 2001 Estate is a blend of 53% cabernet sauvignon, 35% shiraz and 12% merlot. Aromas of strawberry jam, blackberry, dark chocolate, pepper and smoke. On the palate, it showed a lush fruit forward feel with fine-grained dusty tannins and a seamless balance from start to finish. Put quite simply this was a luxuriously ripe red with hints of old world complexity and style.

As a 9 year-old wine, this one still had it going on, fresh fruit, firm tannins and a delicate balance of acidity. It was probably the most serious red I’ve had from South Africa and I’d quite happily buy another to show off to other geeks. I’m even tempted to buy the 2000 Estate I found at another store.

Three Pinot Noirs that Will Make You Bi-Coastal

Is there room in the US pinot noir market for real cool climate pinot noir? Will racier, lighter New York and Ontario grown pinot noir ever establish itself as the alternative to the warmer climate versions?

I hope the answer is yes, but that may be wishful thinking in the near future. The only thing I can be sure of is that northeastern growers and winemakers are making better pinot noirs every year thanks to finding the best sites, planting the right clones, meticulously managing vineyards and using obsessive sorting methods in the winery.

With the hopes that we could get a taste of some of the best east coast cool climate pinot noir available, my friend and I opened three bottles of the good stuff. Each wine has won major awards or has been praised by wine writers. Each is around $35-$40 in price and are relatively small production examples from the 2007 vintage.

The first bottle we tasted was the Heart & Hands Barrel Reserve Pinot Noir from the Finger Lakes. Sourced from three different vineyard sources in the region, this wine won best pinot noir at the 2009 New York Food & Wine Classic and received rave reviews on the New York Cork Report.

In the glass it's ruby red in color with aromas of raspberry, cherry, chocolate and vanilla. As it opened up it took on what I lovingly describe as a birthday cake aroma that reminds me of fruit filled cake with butter cream frosting…very vanilla. Where this wine showed best was its fleshy mouth-feel and round structure. It had a graceful balance and finish. Not terribly complex in aroma and flavor though as we didn’t get much funk, earth or spice.

The next wine tasted was Freedom Run’s 2007 Estate Pinot Noir which recently won a double gold medal at the American Fine Wine Competition. Made from young vines in the Niagara Escarpment AVA, this wine was the first effort from the winery. There were only 95 cases produced. I have been working with this winery for three years now and this has given me a unique perspective on pinot noir in the Niagara region.

In the glass it shows a deep red hue with aromas of dark cherry, cranberry, spice and forest floor. On the palate this one shows a full body mouth filling texture reminiscent of Sonoma versions. Its voluptuous mouth-feel and deep flavors show the masculine side of pinot noir while still clearly showing the complexity of a Burgundian style. With this riper style comes a lack of racy acidity that prevents this wine from being bright which could alienate some drinkers.

The last bottle tried was from Le Clos Jordanne in Niagara, Ontario, a Vincor-Boisset venture that is only making pinot noir and chardonnay. They are clearly obsessed with terrior since they make all single vineyard wines with wild yeast vinifying them the same across the board. The winery has received great press from Pinot Noir writers that have tried their lineup but their wines aren’t currently available in the USA. The bottle we opened was from the Claystone Terrace Vineyard on the Twenty Mile Bench.

With a crimson red color, this wine shows aromas of dark cherry, blackberry, chalk and spice. It had lively acidity on the palate with the red fruit showing particularly strong. This wine felt very tight still as if was wound up in a coil about to lash out. I'm not sure what a mineral core is but this wine would be the first I'd use that description with. The finish was the most impressive of the three with firm yet chalky tannins. Overall this wine just left an impression of sophistication.

These three wines revealed a number of similarities and differences. All are fine examples of how pinot is improving in the northeast as each had fresh fruit flavors without any sign of overripe notes. Alcohol was never an issue in any of them and they all had enough acidity to keep them balanced.

While I don’t think any should be marketing or pushed as Burgundian, Californian or Oregonian, they should be recognized as being cool climate wines. I wouldn’t be ashamed to pour these along with the finest west coast pinots to show the direction we’re heading with pinot noir in the northeast.

Warwick Three Cape Ladies 2004

Warwick Three Cape Ladies Cape Blend 2004
Stellenbosch, South Africa ($25)

I owe my interest in the idea of a Cape Blend to Wine Enthusiast Magazine. Last December they ran a story of how South Africa was embracing the idea of crafting red blends that can undoubtedly be recognized as South African. To achieve this wineries are utilizing a grape that many wine makers would probably like to avoid mentioning…pinotage.

There’s already no shortage of affordable South African red blends being imported into the US consisting of the Bordeaux varieties, Syrah and even some southern Rhone varieties. Even though the prices are inexpensive compared to old world versions, there are several other new world regions like Australia and South America that are competing for the same buyers.

What can South Africa do to distinguish itself and develop a style of its own? The answer seems to be in using pinotage in these blends that range from $10-$30. While pinotage by itself hasn’t developed the sexiest image among wine geeks, I find the idea of it as a blending component to be exciting.

This interest manifested itself in me taking a home a bottle of Warwick’s Three Cape Ladies 2004. This vintage is a blend of 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 21% Pinotage and 13% Shiraz. Aromas of spicy red plum, black currant, mocha, tobacco and hazelnut show new world ripeness with old world complexity and character. This blending of old and new follows through on the palate as well with ripe yet grainy tannins that provide a lengthy finish.

In a blind tasting I might have pegged this for Italian wine. It’s ripe without being jammy, liberally oaked without it overwhelming the fruit, and has some of that rustic charm of the old world. I’m not sure what component the pinotage added in this particular wine, but maybe that’s the point. Its seamlessness is probably what this type of blend is all about.  Overall a fun wine that will spark conversation especially in a blind environment.

La Mano Mencia Roble 2007

La Mano Mencia Roble 2007
Bierzo, Spain ($10)

Indigenous. That’s the word that makes me try a new wine even if it means spending more than I had planned. Want to taste a region as opposed to a grape? That’s the charm of drinking wines that are pretty much only made in a specific region of the world. In this case, the region is Bierzo and the grape is mencia, and luckily it is quite affordable.

As sexy as he whole native species thing is, the fact that this grape has been compared to cabernet franc by some made it a no brainer in my early wine explorations. When I had my first mencia I was on a Spanish wine kick as well which pretty much made try as many as could.

If you’re looking for a solid mencia producer from Bierzo with more than twenty bucks to throw down there’s no need to look further than Descendientes de J. Palacios to find a solid example. Fortunately there are still many fine examples of mencia under $15 worth seeking out for their easy drinking, straightforward and honest red fruit and violet aromas. One of my favorites was this Pucho I used to buy at Astor Wines.

That being said, when I came across this $10 bottle at a local wine shop with a sign that said it had earned a 90 point score from someone, I was curious to say the least. Now I’ve had some clunkers before so I wasn’t completely convinced I was going to be satisfied especially when I saw that the 90 points came from Wine Advocate which is not usually my guide for interesting honest wines.

Ruby red in color with aromas of dried cherries, leather and violets, this wine was lighter in body than what I was expecting. Its smooth tannins and balanced acidity left me with the impression that this wine is pleading for a place at the dinner table. This wines most endearing quality was its balance and grace. It’s one that you’d want several bottles of over the course of a meal.

Painted Wolf Pinotage 2007

Painted Wolf Pinotage 2007
Coastal Region, South Africa ($15)

Looking to bridge the gap between the bulk pinotage destined for American shelves from the stuff that South Africans would probably drink, I found this highly rated pinotage with a painting of a critter on the label on sale for $10 but originally priced at $16.

I'm a sucker for decent IWC scores and if it weren't for that I would've been able to separate this from all the other pinotage on the shelf.

My expectations included some funkiness, a medium to thin body and it possibly being a good candidate for show and tell "brett edition."

Fortunately I was pleasantly surprised with its decadent aroma that made me think of a raspberry dark chocolate truffle dipped in the blood of a rare cooked steak. The palate was full and almost sweet thanks to its ripe fruit and high alcohol level. A touch of smoke on the finish added to its complexity.

This was easily the best pinotage I've had and knowing that this isn't even what the locals would tolerate for quaffable pinotage, I can assume there are better versions out there. I recommend this bottle for your next byob blind tasting. It'll stump even the most trained palates.

Castello Monaci Maru Negroamaro 2007

Castello Monaci Maru Negroamaro 2007
Puglia, Italy ($14)

I got into the lusty wines of Apulia while I was living in NYC. It started with Salice Salentino before I found some amazing Copertino, both of which are based on blending Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera grapes. The combination of ripe and stewed fruit aromas with rustic grainy tannins won me over on reds from Italy’s heel.

At some point in the last few years the number of wines simply labeled Negroamaro have increased in number. The name of the grape itself translates into “bitter black” which clues you in that this is not for every palate.

After a couple years hiatus from Apulian reds, I decided to take home a bottle of Monachi Maru Negroamaro 2007. Why this producer? Well I received a kick ass Primitivo from the same producer last year and was impressed enough to remember them this time around.

Aromas of plum, black cherries, tobacco and vanilla made this wine extremely straightforward. It didn’t help that its juiciness and overall smooth feel didn’t leave anything to the imagination. Not a poor wine, but just very California in style.

I expected much more earthy notes and some  rusticity on the palate. It feels like this wine is trying to be something other than what it wants to be, but I do think this would be a great stepping stone wine for your Zin or Cab drinkers. Ultimately though someone looking for an Italian wine that wants for those raw and lusty reds from southern Italy might be disappointed with this particular bottle, especially at $14.

Uva Mira Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Uva Mira Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Stellenbosch, South Africa

It’s obvious that South Africa makes some good wines under $12. I’m sure there are some decent cabernets, some appealing shiraz and a whole lot of pinotage. I also know without a doubt that their chenin blanc in that price range is some of the best.

The problem is I’ve been trying to find South African wines with the wine of origin label as Stellenbosch. These seem to demand higher prices and aren’t as easy to find as wines labeled Western Cape, Coastal Region or simply South Africa. With several of the Bordeaux inspired blends from Stellenbosch fetching over $40 a bottle in the US, I’m not having an easy time getting the gist of the higher end wines from the region.

Since my mind was set on getting a decent red in the mid twenty dollar range, I found myself stalking the shelves of the wonderland that is Premier Wines. After passing up a $60 red from Anwilka and a $40 red blend from Meinert, I found a $20 Merlot Cabernet blend from Uva Mira. With the stars aligned for a wallet-to-bottle connection - and by stars I mean a wine labeled as Stellenbosch, a decent score by Steve Tanzer and the importer being Michael Skurnik – I brought this bottle home.

Now normally a 52% Merlot – 48% Cabernet Sauvignon blend would bore the crap out of me but that wasn’t the fate of this one. Inky red color with huge ripe plum and black currant aromas, this wine screamed hot climate. Again that would normally be a turnoff but its secondary aromas of tobacco, chocolate and smoke held my attention.

This wine felt supple and full until its fine tannins got a hold of my mid palate. There was just enough grip to remind me that this isn’t a new world fruit bomb. It had an old world rusticity that I can’t get enough of. With a long finish that was possibly sprinkled with a bretty medicinal note, this wine showed a whole lot of character.

With an intriguing balance of new world ripeness and old world winemaking technique, this wine heads in a direction more regions should strive for. I’d like to think that generally South Africa as a region combines old and new world styles but I just haven’t drank enough yet to declare it so. However this Uva Mira blend was just what I was looking for…a $20 Stellenbosch wine that shows what makes the region unique ultimately revealing a sense of place.

Santa Rita 120 Carmenere 2008

Santa Rita 120 Carmenere 2008
Central Valley, Chile ($8)

I’ve put down plenty of carmenere. When I need to find a big ripe and juicy red for under ten bucks I know I can count on Chile’s national grape. I’m all about the spice and bell pepper I often get and I dig the ripe dark fruit.

When I bought this bottle of Santa Rita 120 Carmenere 2008 I was not expecting to be blown away but was anticipating a solid red to warm me up. I’ve had earlier vintages and been satisfied in this ultra low price point. I can usually count on Concha Y Toro, Calina Reserva and this 120 to deliver.

It turns out I either grew out of this wine or this was an off vintage because I wasn’t very satisfied with this wine. Simply put…it was soupy. The pepper and plum aromas were pleasant enough but the mouth feel lacked acidity. Made me think of Rachel Ray’s “thicker than a soup but thinner than a stew” bit from 30 Minute Meals.

Now I may have just grown accustomed to my cool climate wines, and as a more experienced wine drinker these days, I need that balance that acidity offers. Even for $7 I won’t be buying this particular wine again any time soon, but I will be drinking more Carmenere looking for those good buys under $10. That being said I’m sure a bottle like this would go over extremely with party guests and crowds who tend to like juicy mouth filling reds.

Fantinel Merlot 2007

Fantinel Merlot 2007
Friuli, Italy ($10)

Chances are if you see me drinking merlot it’s from one of two places…Long Island or Friuli. Sounds snobby doesn’t it? It just might but be only because I think the merlot should be grown where it’ll just have enough heat to ripen.

I’ve had some memorable Friulian merlots in the past that bring bright red fruit and that rusticity that I find so appetizing in Italian reds. If you’re looking for reds from the region you’re not going an easy time finding them. When I was in NYC, I struggled finding them, let alone where I live now…in God’s country.

So whenever I find a merlot, cabernet franc or even a red blend from Friuli, I am tempted to bring it home. When I saw this bottle of Fantinel Merlot on sale for $10, I had to give it a go. The wine is actually called “Celebrate Life” because a dollar of every sale goes towards charity. I won’t bore you with the details but it has something to do with micro-algae.

With nothing but some red cherry, thyme and vanilla aromas this wasn’t the wine I was expecting. No tar, no forest, no shrooms, no leather…it just didn’t show any complexity. A medium-thin body and light tannins made me think this wine belongs in a carafe rather than a bottle.

In my limited experience making wine, I’d say that this one suffered from over-cropping of grapes. Not a bad wine though as it wasn’t flawed but I just wouldn’t want this one to be someone’s first merlot from Friuli.

Foradori Teroldego 2002

Foradori Teroldego 2002
Trentino/Alto-Adige, Italy ($20)

Some of the sexiest grapes in the world are those that stay under the radar while retaining their expression of place. These are wines, for whatever reason, never gain popularity despite their complexity, affordability or downright sexiness. This comes easy to indigenous Italian grapes. I consider grapes like Lagrein, Refosco and Negroamaro to still be under the radar.

These days reading blogs and using search engines can tell you all you need to know about the grapes us wine geeks get all giddy for, which is in fact how I found out about the Italian grape of Teroldego. Reading a NYCR story about Red Tail Ridge Winery clued me in to another Northern Italian grape that needed tasting.

The grape is primarily grown in the Northeast Trentino/Alto-Adige area of Italy, which is considered cool climate for the country. In flavor, it’s been compared to Syrah and Zinfandel although could never be mistaken for either due to its high acidity. What contributes to the grapes “speak easy” aura is that its sole appellation of origin is Teroldigo Rotaliano D.O.C., a region that isn’t on the tongue of many wine drinkers.

I almost stayed away from this bottle of Foradori Teroldego Rotaliano 2002 because of what I know of Italian vintages. The 2002 vintage was bad for most of the country and every chart I looked at previously basically said “too late buddy.” Considering I don’t see this grape often I still through down the $20 to try a new grape.

With aromas of dried cherry, plum and tar it had a fun nose, and although pleasant, there was something about it that went into a stewed fruit aroma that makes me think it had worn out its welcome in the bottle. The color and extraction took me by surprise considering it’s a cool climate variety and the fine tannins added to the rustic feel.

Even though I wouldn’t recommend this particular bottle and vintage to a friend because of its age, I bet this wine in a recent vintage would be an eye opening experience for most of my geek friends. It’ll be exciting to see how it does in New York State if wineries are crazy enough to try it and dare I say that Toreldego on a tasting menu looks much sexier then Merlot or Lemberger.

Domaine de Pallus Les Pensées de Pallus Chinon 2006

Les Pensées de Pallus Chinon 2006
Loire, France ($20)

Every now and then I come across a cabernet franc that reminds me of what I love about the grape. It’s these times when I drink a glass without fussing over aromas or finishes because these wines just wash away any motivation to intellectualize the experience.

This usually happens with well made Montepulcianos and Dolcettos. For some reason I associate it with mainly Italian wines but it can happen with good Chinons, Bourgiels, or even Cahors. I do appreciate the rest they offer my frequently over stimulated brain and allow my to just relax and sip away.

I picked this one up at a local wine shop that competes with most Manhattan stores I’ve been to in terms of boasting a thoughtful wine selection, City Wine Merchant in downtown Buffalo. There was only one Chinon there and I assumed it was decent, so I took home a bottle of this Domaine de Pallus Les Pensées de Pallus Chinon 2006.

Aromas of blackberry, dark cherry, olive and tobacco make this worth spending some time with your nose in the glass. The palate is ripe and has some flesh behind it, perfectly balanced and generous with its smooth tannins. It’s simply effortless in the mouth and finishes with a chalky rustic feel. Overall a cabernet franc that others should look to for an example of what makes this grape so seductive

Chateau Moine Blanc Saint Émilion Grand Cru 2005

Chateau Moine Blanc Saint Émilion 2005
Bordeaux, France ($30)

After driving some 450 miles to visit friends in NYC, I was given the opportunity to pick out a wine from their stash to follow up the local pinot noir I brought from home. Pleased to find a good selection of decent Bordeaux wines, I picked out what I thought would be a good pairing with the potato and cheese gratin, brussel sprouts and baked ham dinner.

Knowing that St. Émilion wines had a good percentage of merlot and cabernet franc and knowing obviously that grand cru is something better than not, I choose this Chateau Moine Blanc 2005. Oh yea, I’ve also been exposed to the hype of that vintage in France so I knew that I couldn’t go wrong with this choice. This one is a blend of 70% merlot and 30% cabernet franc.

Without letting it warm up from the cellar, we filled our glasses and didn’t miss a beat on our wine consumption. Aromas of blackberry, cherry and spice came through along with some moderate oak notes. If there was one thing we all agreed upon, it was that this wine had balance. The fruit, oak, tannin and acid were all on the same page.

I was afraid I’d chosen a bottle that might have been a little too pricy just to open without regard for temperature and lack of decanting but it turns out this bottle was only around $30. My basic knowledge of French classifications lead me to think anything grand cru would be a big ticket item, but this wasn’t Burgundy. Saint Émilion Grand Cru is the appellation, not a vineyard designation.

Regardless of its moderate price, I know this wine would impress many of the winos I know. This cab franc fanatic doesn’t mind merlot leading the way every now and then, especially when they come together to show balance and grace. Saint Émilion Grand Cru will find its way back in to my glass soon.

Chateau de Haute-Serre Cahors 2004

Chateau de Haute-Serre Cahors 2004
Cahors, France ($20)

The motivation for my trolling the Cahors section of a local wine store came from the downloading of the Flaming Lips new album “Embryonic”. In hindsight, it’s one of the more ridiculous reasons I’ve ever had to buy a bottle of wine and after five years now of constant drinking experimentation, I’ve had some silly reasons.

Cahors is the home of Cot, aka Malbec, that ubiquitous star of Argentina. I assume 9 out of 10 consumers would prefer picking up the Argentine version and that’s great, but I do enjoy being that 1 out of 10 that thinks that malbec from the Southwest of France deserves my attention every so often.

After listening to the aforementioned album, its unrefined tone and lack of catchy melodies was surprising. Being the wine fanatic I am, it got me thinking of what kind of wine this album would be and the answer came pretty quick…Cot from Cahors.

I’ve concluded Argentine malbec is the Yoshimi Versus the Pink Robots of the Flaming Lips discography and Embryonic, which just isn’t as appealing at first listen, is its rough and raw predecessor. It’s going to take some time to reveal its character just as some wines need a few glasses or days. This album is the Flaming Lips before the fancy modern methods of over producing and pop melodies.

This Chateau de Haute-Serre Cahors 2004 was just as I thought I would be…rustic. I got immediate aromas of tar and gravel similar to blacktop with fainter aromas of black cherry, violets and chocolate. Sandy tannins and a rich mouth feel lead to a long yet unpolished finish. There was nothing jammy nor were there any bursts of fruit flavor.

This bottle is definitely not for new world wine lovers or even for South American malbec lovers. If you like your wines like you like your demo tapes, then it might just be for you.

Bernard Baudry Chinon "Les Granges" 2006

Bernard Baudry Chinon "Les Granges"
Chinon, Loire, France ($20)

My wine buying habits can be quite irrational. In my latest example I passed up a few wonderfully extracted 2005 Bourgueils and Chinons just to take home a 2006 Bernard Baudry “Les Granges”. This wine is simply an entry level Chinon from a not so fabulous vintage. They say that anyone can make good wine in a great year. It’s those poor years that reveal the most skilled winemakers, and coming from an area that has clear vintage variations myself, I’m interested in what Chinon reds are like in average to poor years.

“Les Granges” is made from young vines (in France this apparently means only 25 year old vines) in mostly sand and gravel soils. Fermented in stainless steel, this wine is meant for early consumption.

I often find myself describing cabernet franc as rustic and this wine surely fits that term. Dark red in color with aromas of blackberry, black cherry and pepper with undertones of barnyard animals, it revealed mouth filling fruit and a chalky tannic mouth-feel. I really dug the finish. The tannins didn’t finish with sweet fruit flavor, rather more along the lines of earthy loam and chalk.

Overall this wine was definitely rustic. In the second bottle I had I picked up much more of that barnyard aroma which can probably be attributed to some level of brett, but it still wasn’t offensive. For a wine with no oak aging it showed a great deal of complexity and texture, and I’d buy it again.

Lamoreaux Landing T23 Cabernet Franc 2007

Lamoreaux Landing T23 Cabernet Franc 2007
Finger Lakes, New York ($14)

My recent foray into winemaking has given me plenty of experience drinking unoaked Cabernet Franc as most of my batches are less than sixty gallons. I’m always looking for comparable wines as a reference so picking up this Lamoreaux Landing T23 Cabernet Franc 2007 was a no brainer. The aspiring vigneron in me wanted to know what this grape, grown in the Finger Lakes, in a hot vintage and left unoaked would taste like.

The wine revealed a light ruby color, with aromas of cherries and violets. After a few hours it began to show some bell pepper aromas as well, but certainly not right after uncorking. On the palate, this wine was soft and supple and this the first time I can call a wine “easy going” thanks in part to its round structure. Its gentle finish wasn’t complex but it did leave you wanting another sip.

There was also a definite perception of sweetness that I can only guess is the addition of residual sugar. This may have ultimately contributed to its feeling of balance but my interest in tasting a wine unobstructed by oak was now seemingly influenced by some “pushing” of the fruit.

From what I’ve read this wine has been quite popular and I can see why. It’s probably the same reason why so many Parisians enjoy a glass of cab franc at the local bistro. It’s easily quaffable, light and delicate enough to ponder on its own or with any number of food pairings. It makes me think that maybe in the future, restaurants in New York will carry local unoaked Cab Francs as house wines, served in a pitcher and drank from a tumbler. My grade: 2.5/5

Vineland Estates Cabernet Franc 2007

Vineland Estates Cabernet Franc 2007
Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada ($15)

Vineland Estates Winery in Ontario is an impressive winery. It can truly be classified as a destination winery with its restaurant, Carriage House, gorgeous store and tasting room, as well as its spectacular view of the Niagara Escarpment and Lake Ontario. Some of the most respected wines in the Niagara Peninsula have come from this estate winery.

The last time I visited Vineland, I was sold on its Elevation Series wines. Meant to be a step above the entry-level labels, these wines are sourced from the Niagara Escarpment sub-appellation. Limited to 3.5 tons per acre, the grapes are all hand harvested and sorted. My 2005 Elevation Cabernet I brought home that visit was delicious, and I thought it set the bar high for Ontario Cabernet Franc/Sauvignon wine.

When I saw their 2007 Cabernet Franc at Passport Wines in Clarence, I passed up buying the Chinon I was eyeing. Light ruby in color, it was very reminiscent of some franc I’ve had on the US side of the border. My first aromatic impression wasn’t all that positive. Smoke and cherries with a hint of green tannins was all I got. The wine was balanced on the palate but lacked the extraction I was hoping for from this vintage. The green nose blew off but didn’t leave much in way of exciting aromas. With an average finish to boot, this seemed simply destined to be a table wine.

Now it’s not fair that I had such high expectations based on the vintage and producer, especially since these grapes are probably sourced from a few different sub-appellations. It may have been machine harvested and denied a decent sorting session as well. All in all not bad, but I wouldn’t pour this wine to anyone whom I was trying to impress with Niagara cabernet franc. My grade 2.0/5

Pellegrini Cabernet Sauvignon 2000

Pellegrini Cabernet Sauvignon 2000
Long Island, New York ($15)

The most surprising lesson I learned from Tastecamp 2009 is that Long Island reds have the ability to mature gracefully. My previous visits to wineries like Pellegrini or Raphael offered only a snapshot into their wines. Perhaps just one or two vintages of different varietals may have been available. Friday night’s Library tasting at Raphael was definitely an eye opening experience, one that bolstered my respect for the area’s well-made age-worthy reds.

This bottle of 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon from Pellegrini appeared on my local radar after a pioneer former wine blogger from thewinechicks let me know that a local liquor store had this wine on closeout for only $10. Her notes were simply, “It is exactly where it ought to be for the vintage,” motivating me to buy a bottle for a friend that gave me a few bucks to get him some interesting wine. Well let’s just say after last week’s L.I. trip I couldn’t help but recommend us opening it for a dinner we shared a few days ago.

It quickly opened up with an elegant nose of dark cherries and toast. There was a hint of bell pepper that was well within what I can still appreciate in a red. The mouth-feel was what made this wine memorable. The silky soft tannins accompanied by bright acidity struck all the right chords on my palate. The weight of the mid palate and finish were in harmony, making this glass of wine hard to put down. I would have never assumed this wine was still kicking, especially since the store had it on clearance. My grade: 3.5/5

Wild Rock Cupid's Arrow Pinot Noir 2007

Wild Rock Cupid's Arrow Pinot Noir 2007
Central Otago, New Zealand ($20)

Pinot Noir is a grape that I’ve had a hard time really warming up to. The hype, the fuss, the price…all of these make me wary of buying a bottle I  haven’t already enjoyed. My affinity for searching for those “best buys” doesn’t lend itself well to the “heartbreak grape” either. I have found some success though in the Bio Bio Valley in Chile, Friuli in Italy and Burgenland in Austria though.

This Wild Rock Cupid’s Arrow Pinot Noir 2007 found its way into my glass primarily because it recently graced the cover of Wine Spectator. I know that’s amateurish, but I find New Zealand, specifically Central Otago, an exciting region. Just under $20 it still has the potential to be an overachiever for the price.

I opened this bottle and found the aroma to be the most interesting thing about this pinot. With loads of bright red fruit and forest undertones, it brought that earthy quality I look for. As it opened a bit, raspberries and sage began to come forward as the primary aromas. The mouth-feel was light and supple with fruity, bordering on juicy flavors. Though with such soft tannins, it lacked the lengthy finish I was looking for.

What stood out the most in this wine was what it lacked in minerality. With a delicate grape like pinot, I’d expect some minerality to keep things interesting, especially on the finish. Its earthy sage-like aromas were its strong point and I would definitely recommend it just because of that. Will I buy it for myself again? Probably not. My grade: 2.5/5

The Art of Balance: Cool Climate Wines in a Global Context

Even though I am originally from the Niagara region and spent most of my adult life in Miami, I really feel as if I came of age while living close to my friends in New York City. Long Island Wine Country will always have a place in my memory as the most influential wine experience I've had so far. Last week I reconnected and dug deeper into that connection when I attended the Stony Brook Cool Climate/Maritime Wines in a Global Context Symposium in Southampton, NY.

The two day conference featured nine speakers from across the globe who talked about cool climate viticulture and winemaking challenges and methods. When I first received the list of speakers it was the very first one from Friuli, Italy that piqued my interest. In my eternal search for interesting cabernet francs and cool climate merlots I had stumbled upon the wines of Alessio Dorigo and found them to be uniquely delicious.

That morning of day one of the conference, even before I got my pass, I ran into Lenn Thompson of Lenndevours to which I am a contributor. If you walk into a room of Long Island wine industry players, Lenn is the one guy you can count on to know the majority of people in the room and before I knew it I felt at home amongst the crowd. We sat down in the auditorium and I was immediately struck by the intimacy of the setting. Using every other row of the theater style seating gave the pourers access to us and just as Alessio Dorigo kicked off the event, the first wine was poured. Dorigo's 2001 Montscaplade reminded me of why was looking forward to his wines. This blend of Bordeaux grapes was fruit forward and perfectly balanced with subtle spice and a long finish. It was easily the best wine I've ever drank before 10 AM.

Gunter Küntsler of the Rheingau, Germany followed with two elegant mineral packed rieslings. His thoughtful and meticulous presentation just reinforced my perception that German winemakers are all about precision and dedication to their craft and style. Self-proclaimed Deadhead Thomas Laszlo of Heron Hill Winery on Kueka Lake took the discussion in the total opposite direction as his humor-filled presentation concentrated on his winemaking style in the Finger Lakes. While he was laid back in demeanor, he was very opinionated and didn't hesitate to tackle controversial topics in viticulture and what is needed to make world class riesling. His 2005 Ingle Vineyard Reserve Riesling was amazing as it didn't follow any of the fruit driven, hugely aromatic rieslings of his region.

Albariño was the next topic, presented by Katia Alvarez, winemaker for Martin Códax of the Rías Baixas region of Spain. Since her presentation was extremely technical and her accent a bit strong, I didn't initially get as much from her presentation as those that came before it, but it may have also been mental fatigue from my liquid breakfast. Both albariño wines poured were pleasant and reinforced my appreciation for that grape and its refreshing acidity.

The last presentation of the day was a roundtable with each winemaker moderated by Paul Grieco, owner of Terroir (a wine bar in the city) and a bunch of culinary ventures. Terroir was indeed the focus of the discussion and how it relates to minerality was often referenced. When asked what advice these winemakers may have their L.I. counterparts, most of them said that they should limit the amount of leaf plucking in the fruiting zone of the trellis systems. Ironically enough during the last conference some 20 years ago, it was the Bordeaux winemakers who offered advice that they should have been plucking more. Thomas Laszlo again added some fuel to the organic debate as he said he wasn't a believer, especially when the acceptable practice of spraying copper turns vines blue. While I do understand his view, he sure does put it bluntly and unapologetically. A few more wines were poured including a Refosco, a native grape to Friuli from Dorigo that I couldn't get enough of. Surprise, surprise... right? Next up: the grand tasting. That's fodder for my next post. Stay tuned!